z Zegna - Menswear Fashion Show Fall / Winter 2013/14
Third collection for paul surridge at z zegna (the younger and more creative second line from the ermenegilda zegna group) who seems to be more comfortable in the fashion house and successfully infuses his own style, mixing drastic cuts which he is adept, with innovative and technical materials. for next winter, he worked on the impermeability of materials and plays with volumes and 3d. suits, jackets and jumpers take relief, padding effects give a graphical rendering and many pieces are made of two materials, like the mix of leather and felted wool. a contemporary collection with multiple proposals for jackets and overcoats.
music from the fashion show
paul surridge: i feel like there\'s a lot more of me, personally in this collection. i think it takes a while for a designer to understand the logistics and the aesthetic of the house, but i think this season we\'ve managed to edit, but also keep a little bit of the heritage but also me coming through in this collection.
the first part is a research of rainwear, we\'ve created these garments which are being completely `saldato\' heat sealed, so they are completely waterproof, we\'ve modernized the tailoring in that way by giving it a full resilience, kind of a modernity in a contemporary attitude but in a more sartorial silhouette.
then it goes from that into more heavy outerwear, a little bit more nomadic, i was inspired by the idea of travelling, we\'ve been looking at the distant past, like the medieval ages, also the time of caravaggio, the painting. we go through a way of dressing which is a little bit more nomadic, and a little bit more geared towards travelling, how to wear, which has a multi function.