One brand that appeared to be gathering momentum is the house of Alaïa, which profited from haute couture week in Paris to present its latest ideas, many mined very literally from the house's unique archives.
On Friday, Swiss group Richemont, the world’s second-largest luxury group, announced the acquisition of Italian jeweller Buccellati from Chinese group Gangtai Holding, without disclosing the value of the transaction.
The YNAP buy lit a rocket under Richemont sales last year, but it dented profitability. Yet the group remains strong with jewellery and watches buoyant while Chloé and Dunhill have seen good reactions to new products.
Hanneli Rupert, daughter of Johann Rupert, chairman of Cartier and Richemont, has emerged as a countercurrent voice defending the use of exotic leather while the rest of the industry has been moving away from it.