MILAN, Sept 23, 2011 (AFP) - Trussardi marked its return to the Milan catwalks on Friday with a lavish night-time spring/summer 2012 show on the theme of airline travel held in a courtyard of the landmark Sforza Castle.

The collection, which was followed by a party to mark the fashion house's 100th anniversary, was the first by rising star designer Umit Benan who said he wanted to create the image of "a fascinating and determined frequent flyer".

Trussardi - SS 2012 / Photo: Pixel Formula

Models filed past in menswear-inspired outfits with double-breasted jackets, baggy trousers and rolled up shirts. Many lugged large leather handbags and suitcases -- part of the firm's famous luxury accessories range.

Suede featured heavily in the collection including one particularly memorable button up thigh-length coat with a belt and a few jumpsuits that made the models look like sophisticated explorers headed for far-away destinations.

The colours were whites, beiges and khakis as well as burgundy, mustard and ochre and the collections also made use of linens, silks and raw cotton.

At the end of the show, the models took their place on plane seats set out on a raised platform at the end of the runway -- ready for take-off.

The Trussardi woman is "an intellectual without obvious beauty, interesting to get to know and to discover, never banal," said Benan, a German designer of Turkish origin who previously worked at Marc Jacobs and Pollini.