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Zadig & Voltaire puts on a leather-filled fiery show
The French brand took over the Poush art incubator in Aubervillers for a fiery show, where Cecilia Börnström's stylish bikers strutted around a blazing Renaissance-style fountain.
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Elsewhere in Paris: Olivier Saillard, Taak, AZ Factory and Steven Passaro
As the Paris menswear season ended and couture week opened, we checked out four widely differing fashion visions to tap into the style pulse among cognoscenti in the French fashion capital.
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The women who dress men
Women are increasingly making their mark in men's fashion, breaking through the "fabric ceiling" that has seen the industry dominated by men, attracted by a sector where some of the most radical changes are taking place.
Fashion
Maison Margiela: New mansion headquarters, posh-punk collection
Maison Margiela unveiled its new headquarters in Paris on Sunday night and talk about an upgrade. John Galliano celebrated the move with his latest collection – a deconstructed homage to the Queen of Punk, Jordan.
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Hermès: Effortless elegance in UNESCO
It all seemed so effortless in UNESCO this Saturday at Hermès, which made this rather menswear wonderful collection even more special. A great display by Véronique Nichanian, menswear creative director for 35 years.
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Paris couture: A vibrant multi-billion business, opens its next season on Monday
Paris haute couture – the highest expression of fashion – opens Monday with a crammed calendar of bold face name brands and a score of young hopefuls in one of the most intriguing seasons in years.
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Dries Van Noten: Von Humboldt’s coolest current
A dark top floor of a forgotten garage was the curiously ideal location of a sensational collection by Dries Van Noten inspired by the ideas of the great German explorer and naturalist Alexander von Humboldt.
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Style collisions in Paris: Lemaire, Walter Van Beirendonck, LGN
Cosy chic at Lemaire, cosmic chic at Walter Van Beirendonck, horror chic at Louis-Gabriel Nouchi. There was something for everyone on the Paris runways on Wednesday, with well-defined worlds in each instance.
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Grace Wales opens Paris menswear with Baldwin’s bildungsroman and Fanon’s fighting spirit
Grace Wales Bonner is a British designer of Afro-Caribbean origin, who has made a great success of her partnership with German brand Adidas. Yet her show on Tuesday night felt like a true Parisian fashion moment fashion.
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J. W. Anderson: Pert, perverse and yet polished
Got to hand it to Jonathan Anderson, this was the most interesting show in Milan menswear this season. Not maybe the best collection, or best clothes, but the most stimulating intellectual exercise.
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Fendi does uber luxury with Giorgio Moroder backing
Loads of luxury, lovingly displayed in a great collection from Fendi, whose biggest star was the soundtrack, a brilliant performance by the father of disco, Giorgio Moroder.
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Prada: Marching to its own seriously strong beat
It felt one was back among grown-ups at the Prada menswear show, so exact was the tailoring, so savvy the urban uniforms, so clever the proportions in a first-rate display on a wet Sunday in Milan.
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Dolce & Gabbana: Graphite and graphic; girdles and corsets
A tour de force in black from Dolce & Gabbana, and a splendidly steamy Sicilian take on sartorial chic from the design duo on a chilly Saturday in Milan.
Fashion
Milan menswear between party time DSquared2 and Billionaire indulgence
Milan menswear was caught Friday between party animals on the prowl at DSquared2 and Billionaire indulgence -- Elon Musk-worthy in alligator blazers or double-face cashmere.
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Jan Jan Van Essche makes beautiful runway debut at Pitti
Some designers come to Pitti as a consecration, others as a discovery. But Jan Jan Van Essche came for his runway debut triumphing on Wednesday with a beautiful show staged in Renaissance splendor in Florence.
Fashion
Brunello Cucinelli issues epistle celebrating youth for the Epiphany
Brunello Cucinelli, Italy’s fashion philosopher, has issued an open letter celebrating youth, timed for just before the Epiphany, the Christian feast that celebrates the three Magi kings first visit to the Infant Jesus.
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