Sacai takes on volume in Paris
In shiny, loose-fitting jackets, a slim studded belt at the waist, layers of coats and flared dresses revealing legs covered with two-tone tights matching their ankle boots, the Sacai models looked great.
At the fashion show held Monday in the parking lot of Rue Beranger, which once housed the newspaper Liberation, Chitose Abe once again delivered a breathtaking collection full of energy and finds.
Well-known for layering and blending materials in multi-layer and multi-length looks, the Japanese designer passionately deconstructed and recomposed unique hybrid clothes, which were more voluminous this season than before, seen in the use of extra-long jackets and quilted linings. An effect reinforced by XL vertical stripes that were found through most of the collection.
With her Fall/Winter 2018-19 collection, Chitose Abe went even further in her process, as she explained to FashionNetwork.com backstage.
"This season, I did not only combine different fabrics with each other as I did before, but I also worked mainly on the structure by mixing several layers of different clothes to reach a three-dimensional facet," said Abe.
The jackets all had a double or even a triple layer, blithely mixing styles. On the right, the jacket had maxi-pockets and stripes feels sporty, while on the left side, it was more elegant in checkered tweed. Meanwhile, a green zipped aviator jacket on one side turned into a navy blazer with gold buttons on the other, and a tuxedo jacket was paired with a denim jacket.
A green waterproof parka, with a blue quilted lining, came paired with a wool camel jacket. Stripes clashed with big checkered prints, fine pleats with big folds, wool knits with silk, and so on.
Multi-layering was the thread of the entire collection, and with it a nice pair of shoes (a subtle touch), one zebra, the other leopard print.
The collection was completed with a series of fringed jacquard knit dresses with Navajo prints reminiscent of squaw outfits. As for accessories, this season Sacai introduced a collection of earrings designed with jewellery designer Charlotte Chesnais, as well as graphic bags displaying the logo of the American record label Manhattan Records.
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