Ralph Lauren, CK pull in stars in NY fashion climax
today Sep 18, 2015
Fabled US design houses Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein pulled in big stars to sit front row at their dramatically contrasting shows Thursday in a majestic near finale to New York fashion week.
- Ralph Lauren -
Flame-haired screen sirens Julianne Moore and Jessica Chastain were the guests of honor at the designer's Riviera-inspired collection of timeless elegance that saw French chic meet East Coast high society.
The Oscar-winning Moore and critically-acclaimed Chastain were mobbed by photographers as they chatted and posed for pictures in the front row -- Moore in a cream dress and Chastain sporting a one-shoulder navy jumpsuit, and both looking as if they had stepped straight out of a Ralph Lauren commercial.
"My Women's Collection for Spring 2016 is a modern expression of the glamorous spirit of the French Riviera," Lauren, one of New York's most beloved designers, said on Twitter.
"It has a romantic rusticity, as well as a sleek and luxurious sportiness that represents to me both the cool insouciance and understated style of the women who inspire me."
A master in crafting a long, lean silhouette that accentuates the height and slender figures of his models, it was a collection of restrained elegance.
For day, it was a maritime look of white linen shantung pants, navy viscose dresses with cut-out shoulders, navy jackets, sweaters with Breton-style buttons on the shoulder and white silk organza skirts.
Otherwise, white and blue were paired with prominent use of saddle leather -- fashioned into jackets, blouses, cropped pants, shorts and a skirt.
So timeless is the Lauren style that he even managed to make a jumpsuit look elegant, adorned with billowing panels for evening or one in navy liquid lame that looked like the Mediterranean glimmering in the sun.
Besides the plain separates, there was a colorful "bateau" print -- inspired by multi-colored sailing ships -- made into a shirt, a canvas tote, a sateen trench coat and a strapless organza evening dress.
Evening dresses were strapless with billowing skirts, or asymmetrically cut in red silk with cut-out panels. A navy halter gown had a pleated skirt.
Lauren gave another nod to on-season pleats, and to bang-on-trend ruffles, on a silk georgette beaded dress and a champ de fleur linen gown.
The designer came out to rapturous applause at the end, kissed his children and guests of honor, who rose to their feet to greet him, before walking the runway to Frank Sinatra's classic track "I Love Paris."
- Calvin Klein -
Model of the moment Kendall Jenner sat front row at Calvin Klein in a barely-there red dress and towering black stilettos, as did actress Zoe Kravitz in cream.
Francisco Costa, the label's Brazilian-born women's creative director, presented a collection that he summed up as "the morning after" -- an exploration of "modern sensuality through intimate deconstruction."
The overall effect was unfinished, as if the pattern was still pinned to a mannequin in the studio.
There were lots of apron dresses, sashes hanging down, triangular slits cut at the back bottom of pant legs and seams stitched on the outside, but the collection won warm applause from the fashion crowd.
As always at Calvin Klein, the main focus was on black and white, with the eggshell and gold so pale that they could be mistaken for white.
Unusually for the minimalist fashion house, Costa made liberal use of a delicate peony blossom print.
Shoes were slip-on sneakers, and gold chains were worn around the waist.
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