Premium Berlin expands and Seek changes locations

By

Bruno Joly

Published
Sep 10, 2014

The rules of the game have changed in Berlin. As Bread & Butter loses credibility through a series of failed projects (children's fashion, opening to the public, moving to Barcelona), Premium is firing on all cylinders while staying steady in its market positioning and loyal to Berlin.

It also helps that Premium organizers are consultants to Panorama and close to the founders of Seek, being strong supporters of that show and most likely also acting as its shareholders.

For the next edition of Premium, to be held from January 19 to 21, the cutting-edge, urban fashion fair, strong in women's wear with Scandinavian flair, has announced a 17 percent increase of its exhibition space.

The next edition will cover 27,000 square meters. Renovations are currently underway at the former freight rail facility The Station for the addition of an eighth hall. The organizers are also taking over the Kühlhaus, the previous location of the street and progressive fashion fair Seek.

The 6,000-square-meter concert hall Arena will become the new home of Seek, essentially tripling its floor area to take advantage of the cancellation of Capsule Berlin.

The Premium show is expecting the participation of some 1,800 collections. The Kühlhaus, an old abandoned-looking warehouse right near the Station, will house international brands that are also interested in functioning as shop-in-shops.

This time the organizers are clearly going after Bread & Butter exhibitors, picking up hot brands like Japan Rags, Le Temps des Cerises, Marc O'Polo and Minimum. And the show is encouraging brands to display their corner concepts.

The fair's new hall will house sections called Precollections and New Luxury and is expected to host thirty upscale brands that will promote their pre-collections more than their main ones.

Brands being recruited include Costume National, Talbot Runhof, Au jour le jour, Odeeh, Augustin Teboul, Cedric Charlier, Utzon, Michael Sontag, Prae, MSGM, Catherine Malandrino, L'Agence, Issa London, Mother of Pearl, Sachin + Babi, Akris Punto, Sophie Hulme, Porsche Design, Alice & Olivia, Felder Felder and Iris van Herpen.

No significant changes were made in the other halls, where attendees will find brands such as Aamaya by Priyanka, AG Jeans, Altea, BLK Denim, Barbour, Ba&sh, By Malene Birger, Closed, Colmar Originals, Current/Elliott, Dondup, Duffy, Esther Perbandt, Eton, Faliero Sarti, Franziska Michael, Fratelli Rossetti, Hannes Roether, HTC- Hollywood Trading Company, Iro, Karen Walker Eyewear, Kuboraum, Lauren Moshi, Marina Hoermanseder, Moma, M Missoni, Moorer, Nanni, Nanushka, Odeur, Paige, Parajumpers, Premiata, Raparo, Roberto Collina, Schott NYC, Shoto and Zoe Karssen.

Over at Seek, exhibitor satisfaction runs high so no major changes are expected, but the show will greatly increase the number of exhibitors. Seek's regulars include brands such as Puma with its special collections, Veja, Misericordia, Our Legacy, Homecore, Lyle and Scott, and Norse Projects.