Martine Rose: making the ordinary extraordinary

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jun 12, 2017

This weekend’s key name in the London menswear runway season is very definitely Martine Rose, a clever lady who’s aesthetic is all about crossing clever tailoring with international youth cults.

 
She staged her second runway show ever Sunday night in a climbers club in north, north London to a small crowd of fashion insiders and enthusiasts. But the influence of this collection will be felt worldwide.
 
Despite being only tiny fledgling fashion houses in London, the power of the better young UK designers is considerable. It’s that old British boast – punching above your weight. Which is what Rose did with this collection, where mountaineering, Toronto underground music, zoot suits and even golfing collided.

Rose cuts a generous Latin bandleader suit with pleated pants, elongated lapels and sleeves covering fingertips. Though she pairs these with cross-country runner sneakers. She showed humungous parkas in bold retro ski colors and funky après-ski jackets in violet and blood orange – on guys and gals.
 
“It’s about the Toronto scene of the 80s, and also outdoor lifestyles – like mountaineering. It’s the theme of the everyman with corporate details. About making the ordinary extraordinary,” smiled Rose, beaming and pregnant backstage.
 
She is clearly ambitious: plastering her logo: an immense Rose and below a smaller Martine, all over T-Shirts, belt buckles and sweatshirts. One senses she will have a long career.
 
But the story of this biggest show was the midriff; where Rose combined double belts, nylon cummerbunds and slim zippered fanny packs. Leaving this obscure street in Tottenham, one just knew this fashion artifice will be popping up in a score of countries even before the holiday season officially begins. Rose is the thee name to watch in London.