Designer Francesco Risso unveiled on Sunday his hotly-awaited women's collection for Italian luxury brand Marni, a first for the Prada alumnus, who celebrated his debut with bubble wrap.

Risso, 33, a relative unknown in the industry, landed in Milan fashion week with an autumn-winter 2017 set which featured funnel necks, billowing silhouettes and a super-modern look which simulated plastic air-filled pockets.

The man hired by Miuccia Prada for his knitwear prowess has dressed a Marni girl ready for all seasons: black shiny PVC hats and boots make her rain-ready, but there were also light dresses for those late summer days.

Risso, who literally jumped with excitement as he came out to take his bow, told AFP backstage that he wanted his creations to convey the idea of "emotion as a moment you don't expect, leading to infinite possibilities".

"Each act is a being in the act of creating its own reality," he said mystically.

Guests were seated on benches encased in bubble wrap under scaffolding which turned the warehouse space in the northern Italian city into a mock construction site as a symbol of the renewal of the iconic label.

The star look? A blue-marine cocktail dress with a funnel neck, the top mimicking bubble wrap while the skirt featured dozens of small round mirrors which flashed as the model sashayed down the catwalk.

Risso, who studied at London's Central Saint Martins, favoured pastel yellows, blues and pinks as he kicked off the runway show with coats and jackets in padded waxed cotton -- "one of my obsessions" -- which billowed out at the back.

Many of the models sported rain hats -- think the style worn by Britain's favourite fictional grizzly, Paddington Bear -- with fleece tops and black PVC lining.

Boots were also vinyl in black or electric blue with feathers poking out of the top.

Fake fur coats and jackets were oversized -- by now a clear staple of the upcoming fall -- while skirts were kept simple, cut off at the knee and with a front slit.

Necklaces were large glass balls while the lightest dresses were worn with sandals with wheels as heels.

Two other trends from the latest catwalk season, floral and geometric patterns, showed up on dresses and skirts.

Risso was also the latest in a series of designers who have decided it is time for the bra to leave the bedroom and hit the streets.

Bikini tops and bras were stitched onto the outside of dresses and tops, including one jazzy number that brought it all together: a pink bra over a silver dress with geometric patterns, matched with red PVC boots.

ide/jm

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