Hyères 2015 awards Annelie Schubert
The last fashion show at the International Festival of Fashion and Photography, which celebrated its 30th anniversary, concluded with warm applause on Sunday evening. The designers selected as the ten finalists joyfully took to the podium amid a flurry of balloons and confetti, joining in to sing "Happy Birthday” in front of a giant number 30.
The Première Vision Grand Prize was taken by Annelie Schubert, whose collection featured a simple but refined elegance and demonstrated a mastery of proportions.
Born in Göttingen, the 28-year old designer graduated from Berlin art school Weissensee and completed an internship at Haider Ackermann. "What I love about fashion is that it provides immediate access to the present. It captures the spirit of the times and always changes," said Schubert, who is passionate about textures, and played with contrasts between neoprene, tweeds and natural materials.
"I work with tissue samples that I put together like abstract paintings. The fabrics speak for themselves! My work is a mix between my passion for fabrics and the way things fall. I build the dresses directly on the model, like a sculpture," she said.
For her collection, Schubert borrowed inspiration from aprons "combining opulence with a more casual style," with long dresses in the front and short and open in the back, alongside somber toned pieces that can be superimposed or be worn in different ways.
As part of her prize, the young designer has received 15,000 euros and the opportunity to present her work in New York and in Paris with Première Vision. She will present a new collection at the next Fashion Festival in Hyères, while also enjoying the resources and the expertise afforded by certain workshops belonging to Chanel’s Métiers d’art network, with access to fashion houses such as Lemarié and Lesage, a prize also valued at 15,000 euros.
For the event’s 30th anniversary, Chanel, which was the festival’s special guest, decided to create an exceptional special mention prize, a grant of a collaborative project with some of Chanel’s specialty ateliers valued at 10,000 euros, as well as 5,000 euros added by Joana Vasconcelos, the Portuguese artist who served on the fashion jury, through her foundation. The special prize was awarded to Dutch designer Wieke Sinnige, who proposed one of the competition’s most successful collections, featuring impressive technical work with pleats.
The Chloé prize was presented to German designer Anna Bornhold by the head of the fashion house, Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, who congratulated her for her "sunny personality and a great sense of humor, which shines through," channeling the spirit of the Chloé girl with nonchalance and modernity. The exercise in style has been presented to finalists for the past four years and allowed Bornhold to go home with 15,000 euros.
The 32 year-old designer, who studied art in Bremen and technical arts in Hanover, has a real passion for textiles, creating her own fabrics from thread that she herself produces by assembling various samples. "I like playing with humor, but with a certain depth," she said.
Finally, the People’s Choice prize went to Chen Yiyu. A native of Taiwan, the 26-year old designer, who completed her fashion studies in Arnhem, the Netherlands, dreams of moving to Paris or New York. She captivated the audience with a very powerful collection featuring wild warrior-like women, their eyes covered by long, hairpiece bangs, and wearing pieces showing off large volumes at the shoulders.
Meanwhile, on the photography side of things, the jury, chaired by Eric Pfrunder, image director at Chanel, awarded its Grand Prize to Dutch photographer Sjoerd Knibbeler, while a special mention sponsored by Chanel was given to Greek photographer Evangelia Kranioti, who also won a grant from fashion designer Elie Saab, which includes a residency in Beirut. The People’s Choice Award was given to British artist, Polly Tootal.
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