×
110
Fashion Jobs
L'OREAL GROUP
Senior Manager - Digital Marketing & D2C, Kerastase
Permanent · Mumbai
NIKE
Lead Product Management – ed&a, Icc, India
Permanent · Bengaluru
NIKE
Senior Dynamic Application Security Tester – Cis, Icc, India
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Senior Manager - Golf Sales (Cpg-Cobra Puma Golf)
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Manager - Accounts Payable
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Senior Manager – Teamsport Sales
Permanent · Bengaluru
NIKE
Lead Technical Product Manager – p&m, Icc, India
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Manager – Customer Reconciliation And Accounts
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Manager – Warehouse Operations (Ecommerce)
Permanent · Gurugram
NIKE
Lead Product Manager, India – ed&a Icc
Permanent · Bengaluru
PVH
Manager, Business Solutions
Permanent · Bengaluru
NIKE
Identity And Access Management (Iam) Security Operations Engineer, India – Cis Icc
Permanent · Bengaluru
NIKE
Expert Security Incident Coordinator, India – Cis Icc
Permanent · Bengaluru
NIKE
Sap bi Lead Engineer – Sec Tech, Icc, India
Permanent · Bengaluru
NIYOSSHIC LUXURY CONSULTANCY
Social Media Intern
Internship · MUMBAI
SAAHRA
Graphic Design Summer Internships
Internship · NEW DELHI
BROADCAST THE COMPANY
Business Developement
Internship · MUMBAI
ESTÉE LAUDER
Estee Lauder - Beauty Advisor - Nykaa on Trend p&m, Jamshedpur - 40 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Jamshedpur
ESTÉE LAUDER
Estee Lauder - Beauty Advisor - Thrissur Nykaaontrend
Permanent · Thrissur
ESTÉE LAUDER
Estee Lauder - Beauty Advisor - Mangalore - Nykaa on Trend Forum Fiza Mall
Permanent · Mangalore
ESTÉE LAUDER
Estee Lauder - Beauty Advisor - Nykaa Ontrend Pmc, Bareilly - 40 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Bareilly
ESTÉE LAUDER
Estee Lauder - Beauty Advisor - Chennai - Nykaa on Trend Vijaya Mall
Permanent · Chennai
Published
Jul 4, 2018
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Fendi Couture’s poetic Orphic vision

Published
Jul 4, 2018

Just when you thought you were going to drown in a sea of fawning bloggers, hyper indulgent technique, overblown spectacle and conservative homages to fashion houses’ DNA, along came Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi to make us finally dream. 


Fendi - Fall-Winter2018 - Haute Couture - Paris - © PixelFormula


Precisely by breaking new boundaries, and reinventing the wheel at Fendi, with the goal of creating a new fashion paradigm at the most famous fur brand in the world. And injecting a little much-needed poetry into couture.
 
“You may not believe this, but 80% of these clothes were not even made of fur,” trumpeted Karl Lagerfeld in the backstage of the Palais Brongniart, France’s former stock exchange.

Inspired by the Orphic Cubism art movement with its obsession with geometric patterns and bright abstraction, the collection had a wonderful artistic bent – seen in the remarkable circular motifs that covered many stunning coats.
 
“Actually that was made of shearling,” Silvia Fendi politely corrected one enquiring editor at the backstage look-board, pointing to a to-die-for honey-colored coat with the famed multiple circles pioneered by Czech painter František Kupka, which had to be made of mink, but no, it was actually made of shearling.
 
A remarkable multicolored coat that recalled Robert Delaunay’s vertical abstract architecture paintings seemed certain to have been made of shearling but was in fact organza; a truly opulent black astrakhan broad-shoulder coat that reeked class turned out to be velvet. While a stupendous abstract bolero with fringed wrap skirt that seemed to have stepped off a Sonia Delaunay painting was uncannily like leather but instead was in organza.
 
Quite rightly, the collection was named Fendi Couture, as opposed to its previous more restrictive title, Fendi Fourrure.

All worn by a cast shod in multimedia Memphis meets Cubism shoes, with heels composed of Perspex, maple and horn.
 
Above and beyond the technique was the sheer refinement of the vision, its rarefied colors and its punchy gentility. A relief after a season which has swung between the technically audacious and the tired and formulaic. 


Fendi - Fall-Winter2018 - Haute Couture - Paris - © PixelFormula


The actual term, Orphism was invented by the great French poet Guillaume Apollinaire, who, however, would not have been impressed by the literary qualities of the show program, which invented the concept “waterfalls of Mongolian lamb.” Errr…
 
That said, the show was also a brilliant Paris debut for Fendi’s latest CEO Serge Brunschwig, who positively radiated contentment. Even if his two predecessors, Michael Burke and Pietro Beccari, were also both backstage to enjoy a little reflected glory.
 
“Absolutely sublime,” opined LVMH Chairman and Fendi’s ultimate owner Bernard Arnault, embracing Lagerfeld.
 
Asked about a recent opinion piece in the New York Times that LVMH, and rivals Kering and Richemont were all divesting themselves of smaller brands in their portfolios, in order to prepare for major new acquisitions, Arnault scoffed: “Boh! We haven’t sold very much. Listen, great brands are like great paintings, the smart thing is to hold on them!”
 
“Just like your designers?" suggested one editor. 
 
“Exactly, just like great designers,” Arnault chuckled.

Copyright © 2021 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.