Dolce & Gabbana’s dialectic evolution
Dolce & Gabbana named their latest menswear collection Evolution, though it could have been named "Contradiction".
They telegraphed their concept by sending a video montage with each invitation recounting that Opposites Attract: The Sacred and the Profane; Erotic or Catholic; Baptism or Funeral, or best of all, Sweet Gabbana or Sour Dolce – all to the beautiful music of Mascagni’s Cavalleria Rusticana.
Out on the runway Saturday afternoon one got the brilliant contrasts of streetwear and sartorial chic; boxing champion gowns with paisley silk tuxedos; bulky camouflage cargo pants finished with Italian shopping logos. Half the looks emblazoned with big bold titles: like "King" or "Royals".
Inevitably, the duo’s beloved Sicily, that opened the video, was seen as antique maps on linen tunics; as well as smiling puppets and fierce cartoon knights. Too much mirth, a cool Asian couple in silks made in a giant penne pasta print.
Even a satyr appeared in ragged jute shorts embroidered with gold leaf; his pectorals trimmed with gold paint; his head covered in a golden Caesar’s laurel wreath.
All staged on a baroque catwalk before a massive gold baroque altar with faded mirrors and dancing cherubs, with a red throne in the middle.
The catwalk completed by exotic couples walking hand in hand; two ladies in Marlene Dietrich white tuxedo suits; the gents in playboy silk dressing gowns. Even four septuagenarian ladies in high-color pajamas and American track sport jackets; Latin ladies who lunch as rappers. And a beautiful couple with a toddler boy – wholesome too – veteran Lothario Enrique Palacios with partner Veronica Schneider and their blond toddler son.
Traditionally in the ready-to-wear shows Dolce & Gabbana pick a theme and work it to the max. This was them ranging all over their DNA and packing a tremendous visual wallop; the latest optimistic moment of joie de vivre from the duo.
Cameron Dallas and Monica Bellucci opened the action rising up into the stage set, with the American blogger hero in a gold embroidered suit worthy of Delacroix. But the show’s true star was Naomi Campbell, emoting in a chalk stripe Smooth Criminal gangster suit. She brought the house down; a wall of sound as she then posed with the design duo, Bellucci and veteran Dutch model Marpessa Hennink.
And, to think, Dolce & Gabbana have another showed planned for 10PM tonight. They never stop.
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