Christopher Kane goes undercover for spring/summer 2017

Christopher Kane had bobbies on the brain when he designed his spring/summer 2017 menswear collection.

"We were looking at cop shows and police identification techniques, looking at the graphics associated with them," the Scottish designer explains of the bold collection unveiled this week at London Collections Men.

The result is a line of highly detailed pieces with subtle touches such as reflective thread and graphics inspired by police fire range targets hinting at the investigative process behind the collection.

These legal influences were combined with more traditional motifs such as gingham and check to create a nostalgic aesthetic whose strong, clean lines also feel very modern. "In many ways the collection is a reflection of what I grew up with; that clean, pristine, washed and ironed sportswear way of dressing -- the casual kids in Glasgow -- mixed with that world of TV: Crimewatch and casual," adds Kane.

The pansy, which featured in the designer's womenswear resort collection, also turned up here, blown-up on intarsia knits, adding a hint of femininity to chiffon shirts and injecting contrast to masculine outwear.

Fabrics were technical and researched, ranging from liquid nylon to techno twill, to further underpin the theme of the collection. Kane named waterproofing, breathability and environmental sustainability as three of its key components. But the key narrative was clearly that of order vs. disorder, with a tough of flower power thrown in to sweeten the deal.