Sep 23, 2015
Anya Hindmarch and Marques' Almeida close London Fashion Week
Sep 23, 2015
London Fashion Week wrapped up Tuesday after a whirlwind five days of runway shows for the UK's Spring/Summer 2016 collections. In a tribute to the capital's gift for attracting international talent while nurturing homegrown innovation, the closing date featured shows from Marques' Almeida and Emilio de la Morena alongside accessories royalty Anya Hindmarch.
Portuguese duo Marques' Almeida continued their foray into disheveled glamour with a collection of shredded dresses, frayed denims and chunky biker jackets. The show was replete with 1990s references, from halter necklines to semi sheer chiffon dresses to the ruffles that covered almost everything, draped over the shoulders of frocks and running up trouser legs. Hot pinks mingled with dark denim blues and casual neutrals, while the mesh of textures, from organza skirts and silk blouses to patent leather, lent the collection a depth and versatility that nodded to the grunge of festival fashion but remained accessible and expressive.
Emilio de la Morena stood at the other end of the spectrum, revealing a chic and flirtatious collection of sculpted jacquard dresses designed to nip in and skim out in all the right places. If the tailoring of the tight waistlines, bare shoulder necklines and hems that flared to the knee were traditional then the color palette was not -- the Spanish designer used a mixture of dazzling Mediterranean and cool pastel hues to make the pieces pop, incorporating lemons, fuchsias and metallic tones into the series, occasionally crafting them into a pretty floral or abstract animal print, or using color blocking to create graphic stripes.
Anya Hindmarch also played the graphic stripe card, debuting an accessories collection that centered on crisp, abstract patterns. From references to the UK department store John Lewis and high street bank Nationwide, Hindmarch's collection remained as steeped in Britishness as ever (although the Gallic red, white and blue of the French supermarket Carrefour did also make an appearance). The leather bags and open-toe boots were luxurious and witty -- the brand's signature, magical combination.
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