Y/Project: deconstruction, reconstruction, revolution in menswear
Y/Project designer Glenn Martens had the fine idea of staging his latest catwalk show at the horticultural garden, in full bloom, of Paris’s School of Pharmacy. Leaving aside the burgeoning volumes of previous collections, for the Spring/Summer 2019 he focused on a clothing accessory which enables everyone to morph their silhouette as they please.
He devised a nylon ‘over-garment’ which can be slipped like a body-hugging second skin over jackets, sleeves, trousers, sport tops and even overcoats. It can be arranged at will, covering the whole of one’s body and clothes or just a part, as the material can be pleated and puckered to sculpt one’s own silhouette.
Overlaid on the top part of a leather coat, this nylon over-garment looks like a jacket. Alternatively, it offers a glimpse of the lower part of a top, or it clings to a brown suit, moulding it as though it was immersed in molten chocolate. It creates unexpected pleats and draped effects, fitting over clothes like a protective casing.
Another avenue pursued by Y/Project was that of trompe-l’œil and two-in-one effects, especially in jeans. Cut up and combined with another denim piece, jeans take on unexpected volumes and seem to sag, or are worn backwards with a low-waist look. Other blue jeans models were cut at the hip joint and combined with a black or white denim leg, looking like underpants worn over trousers.
Finally, for this menswear season Y/Project put great emphasis on jewellery, its models flaunting diamond earrings and large, ring-shaped metallic neck chains. Since winning the ANDAM 2017 prize, the Flemish designer is very keen on extending his accessories range, starting from jewellery.
The latter is produced by Belgian designer Stéphanie d’Heygère, like Glenn Martens a graduate of the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Stéphanie d’Heygère was a finalist at the ANDAM 2018 prize, for the fashion accessories category.
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