Jun 25, 2017
Workwear meets tailoring at Lanvin
Jun 25, 2017
Classical workwear met classy tailoring in memorable show by Lucas Ossjendrijver for the house of Lanvin.
In effect, Ossjendrijver, mixed, zapped and fused different types of garments; to assemble workerist jackets with finely made suits - combining opposites. Staged in a busy style, where models dashed about the concrete floor of a boxing ring deep inside AccorHotels Arena, the new name for Bercy stadium.
He showed beautifully cut pinstripes but made to look almost like a salary man’s uniform. He took fine fabrics like a great Prince of Wales check, but bonded with activewear fabrics inside; and played with his proportions with some great clinging knitwear that was bonded with an interior membrane. He cut pants and raincoats with highly assured volume, in a collection that confirmed him as one of menswear’s most important designers.
His favorite accessory was a dangling hand, made by 3D printers and then hand-covered in leather – hence a handmade hand.
“There is such chaos nowadays, that instead of fighting it I decided we should embrace it,” explained the designer amid a swirl of well-wishers post-show
This show connected with a new optimism in Paris, in part reflected by Parisians' determination not to let terrorist attacks alter their daily lives. And buoyed by the return of significant numbers of tourists from America and China to France. Indeed, a good third of the audience were Asian, led by Chinese superstar actor Hu Bing, who lives in Tokyo.
Bing is actually the international ambassador for London Fashion Week Men’s. Yet he confessed to FashionNetwork.com, “I love Lucas’ fashion and am a huge fan. So today I’m Lanvin total look.”
In the sweetest touch, Ossjendrijver commissioned a series of portraits of tourists in Paris and then asked several street artists in Montmartre to paint them, before placing these faces on loose shirts.
“I just hope nobody recognizes themselves and comes looking for royalties,” joked the designer.
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