×
256
Fashion Jobs
BAJAJ FINANCE
Sales Manager (Digital Product Finance)
Permanent · Hyderabad
RAJARAJESHWARE BUILDDCON
Sales Manager
Permanent · Bengaluru
BAJAJ FINANCE
Sales Manager (Digital Product Finance)
Permanent · Dankuni
BAJAJ FINANCE
Sales Manager (Consumer Durable)
Permanent · Asansol
SAGAR PETROLEUMS
Territory Sales Manager
Permanent · Warangal
INCITE HR SERVICES
Area Sales Manager | Business Development Manager
Permanent · Durg
UNIBRAND DRINKS PVT. LTD
Horeca Sales Manager Mumbai Pune
Permanent · Pune
ORIENT ELECTRIC LTD.
Area Sales Manager - B2B Sales - Bangalore/ Belagavi
Permanent · Bengaluru
SUPRO CONSULTING
Area Sales Manager - on Roll
Permanent · Faridabad
THE INFINITY SPACE
Area Sales Manager - Team Handling
Permanent · Guwahati
ALKUSH INDUSTRIES
Area Sales Manager/Sales Officer
Permanent · Nashik
ALKUSH INDUSTRIES
Area Sales Manager/Sales Officer
Permanent · Alibag
SUPRO CONSULTING
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Kolhapur
H&M
Sustainability Developer
Permanent · NEW DELHI
INTERMEDICS HEALTHCARE LLP
Area Sales Manager - Asm - Ivf/Hormones (Medical Devices)
Permanent · Lucknow
CRESCENDO GLOBAL LEADERSHIP HIRING INDIA
Area Manager- Fmcg Sales- (2- 5 Years)- Bangalore
Permanent · Bengaluru
KEZAN INDIA
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Pune
ACHYUTAM INTERNATIONAL
Sales Manager- Printing & Packaging- Africa
Permanent · Chennai
SWAT CERAMIC PRIVATE LIMITED
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Pune
NR CONSULTING
Requirement- Direct Sales Manager- Rajasthan
Permanent · Ajmer
ACHYUTAM INTERNATIONAL
Sales Manager- Printing & Packaging- Africa
Permanent · Chennai
ADITIYA
Area Manager-Retail Business Development (Ncr,UK)
Permanent · New Delhi
Published
Jan 19, 2023
Reading time
3 minutes
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Rick Owens: Louche luxe from Luxor

Published
Jan 19, 2023

It’s hard to think of a more influential designer or a more imitated brand, at the very least in menswear, than Rick Owens who staged a great show with a powerful collection in the Palais de Tokyo in Paris on Thursday.


Rick Owens - Fall-Winter2023 - 2024 - Menswear - France - Paris - © ImaxTree

 
The first true fashion moment of the current six-day Paris menswear season, this fall winter collection 2023/24 had everything one wants to witness on a Rick runway.
 
Drama; defiant proportions; super-hero casting; startling silhouettes; even more drama and multiple evocations of the designer’s new winter home, ancient Luxor, in historic Egypt.

It opened with Owens’ muse Tyrone Dylan prowling out in Perspex-heeled black leather thigh boots, tight shorts, vampire cape, and a square meter of his pneumatic drill like torso. Does this man live in a gym?
 
Dozens of models marched in Rick’s cuissards, as the French term thigh high boots, often paired with sleeveless padded waistcoats, one meter wide at the top. Many accessorized with dominatrix, oversized leather gloves with multiple angled zips.


Rick Owens - Fall-Winter2023 - 2024 - Menswear - France - Paris - © ImaxTree


What the designer termed in his program notes as “reduced architectural shapes with a whiff of sleazy seventies pseudo-mysticism.”
 
Rick stayed true to his DNA with multiple goth pagoda shoulder jerkins and coats, and a series of boldly oversized flight jackets. The latter made from GRS certified recycled polyamide, dyed by using eco-pigments on synthetic fibres. Other looks in a khaki olive color, were made by using olive waste.
 
Though a card-carrying member of the avant-garde, Owens has commercial savvy – showing a couple of vented black serge wool blazers that managed to be both classical and somehow carry the Rick imprimatur.
 
And his raw materials can often be surprisingly traditional too - like mohair twill sourced from vintage 1950s looms owned by the legendary Italian 4th generation textile maker, Bonotto in the Veneto.


Rick Owens - Fall-Winter2023 - 2024 - Menswear - France - Paris - © ImaxTree


With heavy rock tracks from The Cult booming out of the speakers, the cast marched on an elevated steel runway. Their faces finished with one-inch-wide black stripes, attired in swirling capes; spike-shoulder blousons; and a brilliant series of two-foot thick leather puffer blankets tied up like a modernist sculpture. Funky latter-day pharaohs.
 
“The vastness and scale (of Luxor's) line up with the Cecil B. Demille fantasy of Egypt in the movie The Ten Commandments, which I watch nightly while working out with Brutalismus 3000 pumping through my earphones. Merging real life with fantasy life is one of my favourite things. And measuring the insignificance of contemporary discomforts against that amount of history comforts me,” added American’s most important fashion export to the Paris fashion season.
 
But before darkly concluding: “There is a bitterness to creating a collection during a war – a desire to contribute our sombre best in an industry that must remain stalwart, with a sense of frustration that nothing is enough.”
 
 

Copyright © 2023 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.