Two years after the death of its eponymous founder, Pierre Cardin made its return to Paris Fashion Week on Sunday evening, 30 years after dropping out of the event’s official calendar. A come-back that marks the label's relaunch, supported also by a newly created e-shop.

See catwalk

“My uncle, once he became a successful designer, thought he no longer needed to show as part of the official calendar, refusing to be forced to present two collections a year on specific dates. He was content to simply create, showing from time to time in France or abroad,” said Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, Pierre Cardin’s nephew and successor, talking to the AFP agency.

“I think it's important to be featured on the official calendar. I see no reason not to take part in such a major international event,” he added, 70 years after Pierre Cardin's first runway show in 1953.

The label’s design studio now consists of Basilicati-Cardin and three long-time collaborators. In a historic Faubourg Saint-Honoré building close to the Elysée Palace in Paris, the quartet took to the stage together to sign off the show’s 60 looks.

A day set consisting of a turquoise jacket with geometric cut-outs worn over loose white trousers, an evening dress with a transparent train, a cropped blouse and flowing trousers worn under a matching coat: the new collection revisited the label’s classic codes and spatial approach, but with a much more refined and contemporary feel, celebrating bright colours and recycled fabrics, in homage to the sustainable principles advocated by Basilicati-Cardin, an engineer by training.

“The silhouettes have been simplified, while remaining distinctive. I also wanted to appeal to a younger clientèle, which is increasingly turning away from uniformity,” he added. Basilicati-Cardin also stated that Maxim's is no longer for sale, as his uncle announced a few years ago.

The legendary restaurant, bought by Cardin in 1981, is set to reopen soon on a year-round basis. Its renowned American bar will be revamped, and an Art Nouveau-themed hotel will occupy the building’s top floors.