Mar 11, 2016
Paris Modes TV rounds up Paris Fashion Week: ‘The see now, buy now approach is not very French'
Mar 11, 2016
With Fashion Week wrapped up in the French capital, fashion journalists Sophie de Champsavin and Natalia Grgona of Paris Modes TV talked about this latest round of catwalk shows, showcasing upcoming trends and new faces to watch out for on the Paris runway.
What main trends for autumn/winter 2016 were seen on the Paris catwalk?
Paris is definitely the capital of design, with collections that are both creative and pragmatic, original and functional. Think a Parisian woman, combining luxury with a certain casual, offhand style. This is about real French craftsmanship, unique studios and fashion that takes time -- hours of work-- and which isn't made to be consumed straight after a show! The "see now, buy now" approach just isn't a part of French culture, and the big fashion houses have spoken out against the idea. Fashion inspires dreaming, and that deserves time, effort and attention! That could sum up Paris Fashion Week.
The Parisian collections exuded a certain luminosity, heavy with lamé, Lurex, metallic effects and gold. A real explosion of color and texture. Brands stood out from one another with prints, mixes of fabrics, embroidered sequins and saturated textures. Dries Van Noten, Kenzo, Stella McCartney, Emanuel Ungaro and Givenchy are the perfect examples.
There were also two contradictory silhouettes at play, with oversized outerwear garments alongside pieces fitting the body more closely. Femininity mixed with a touch of masculinity.
The Paris catwalk saw floaty dresses with thin straps, with sheer, frilled and smocked designs, alongside more wintry pieces like chunky knits, tweed jackets, checked shirts and leather jackets, for a more masculine, almost rebellious style. Seasons are clearly no longer important, especially at Chloé, John Galliano, Nina Ricci and Vêtements. Even Elie Saab matched a bomber jacket with a couture dress.
What's the key piece for autumn/winter 2016 wardrobes?
The varsity jacket, the bomber jacket, the short, denim-style jacket (Givenchy, Vêtements, Courrèges, Ungaro, Sonia Rykiel) -- back in a big way -- and the padded down jacket in pole position, even at Chanel, Rick Owens and Acne Studios or in a faux duvet style at Stella McCartney. Other standout pieces include loose, high-waist pants at Céline, Chloé, Off White, Sonia Rykiel, as well as vinyl or glazed leather at Louis Vuitton, Nina Ricci, Courrèges, Giambattista Valli, the mid-calf-length skirt at Chanel, Roland Mouret, Christian Dior, and long, wide Bermuda shorts at Hermès and Dries Van Noten.
Coats went XXL, often seen in military styles, decorated with stripes and trimmings. They even became coat dresses at Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior. Lots of designers emphasized shoulders and necklines, sometimes revealed them, with a focus on the chest at Dior, Kenzo, Stella McCartney and Louis Vuitton.
Boots and thigh boots, a new set of chic accessories and jewelry piled high, in particular at Dior and Chanel.
Which models stood out as faces to follow?
Black models proved a strong presence on the runway, with short, cropped hair and glossy skin. Particular favorites are Tami Williams, Aya Jones and, of course, Lineisy Montero.
This is also the season of Damaris Goddrie. Taylor Hill grabbed attention with her magnificent eyes. Superstar model Gigi Hadid was kept apart from everyone else backstage in a private space with Kendall Jenner, so no one could approach them.
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