NYFW Day 2: Wearable hope and wanderlust takes the digital stage
The second day of New York Fashion Week continued to touch on the previous day's themes of hope and pointed social commentary, while also leaning into daydreams of global travel.
The day's events included Anna Sui's spring 2021 presentation, as well as a fully digital schedule for New York Men's Day, broadcasted on the CFDA's Runway360. Brands Carter Young, David Hart, Future Lovers of Tomorrow, Stan, Teddy Vonranson and Timo Weiland presented menswear, while Apotts, Ka Wa Key, Official Rebrand and Watatru Tominaga showed gender fluid collections.
The day marked a NYFW debut for the Tokyo, Japan-based Wataru Tominaga, Los Angeles-based brand Stan and New York City-based brands Future Lovers of Tomorrow, and Teddy Vonranson.
Pulling on our collective yearning for an exotic vacation, Badgley Mischka's spring 2021 collection took inspiration from places both far and fantastical -- from the Grecian isles and Havana, Cuba to the ruins of Mexico and the Garden of Good and Evil, the brand said.
"Colors are drawn from classic Greek villas and their vistas, the Cuban flag, and the fabulous gardens throughout America from Long Island to Georgia. The fabrics are modern versions of the timeless, luxurious textiles that we love – mikado, doubleweight and satin crepes, lace, tulle, georgette. We wanted a glamourous but easy spa feel for our clothes, and developed a super lightweight sequined terrycloth that we love."
Glorious gowns reigned supreme in luxe crimson, sequined gold, bright fuchsia and vibrant blue, fit for a seaside Greek getaway, alongside a hassled caftan, paisley and floral top and pant set, and black coat dress.
"We were leaning toward a Cole Porter, lounge-y vibe with the collection, with Jean Harlow in “Dinner at Eight” as our particular hero this season," the brand said. "These are clothes meant to comfort us while we are at home, and to celebrate when we can."
Ukrainian brand Bevza paid homage to its cultural roots for its spring/summer 2021 collection, presented in a film entitled 'Tryp'. Inspired by Trypillia, an ancient Ukrainian culture famous for its pottery, the collection "encompasses some of the most ancient and fascinating aspects of Ukrainian history while exploring the powerful sanctity of women," the brand said.
Complementing the pottery's organic, simple beauty, the collection's slinky dresses, wide-legged pants, knit cardigans and linen jackets are natural, elegant and soft, featured in a color palette of black, white, cream, pale yellow, dusty pink and pale mint.
“I wanted to show how important it is to find our roots and make it interesting. This pandemic separated us from other nations and cultures,” said designer Svitlana Bevza. “We can communicate our customs to each other by telling a story of our own land."
Showing on Runway360, Aknvas -- the brand founded by Dior, Raf Simons and John Galliano alumni, Christian Juul Nielsen -- presented a full spring 2021 collection of womenswear, as well as the brand's premiere menswear collection.
Alive with brightly colored parkas, jumpsuits and striped button-down shirts for men and trenches, shirt dresses, ruched tops, pants and shorts for women, both collections were inspired by Nielsen's vibrant travels throughout the Caribbean, wrapping up tropical optimism in clean Scandinavian cuts.
Oak & Acorn ~ Only for the Rebelles
Miko Underwood's brand Oak & Acorn - Only for the Rebelles, which claims the title of first sustainable denim heritage brand made in Harlem, New York, presented a film focused on the role of Black Americans in the legacy of denim to celebrate its 2021 'seasonless' collection.
Entitled 'Red White and Indigo, the untold story of American denim,' the film is split into multiple chapters of history from the slave era to the modern labor and civil rights movements, showing a gender-diverse cast of models in a range of indigo, black, grey and white denim pieces.
The collection's pieces are made with handwoven and hand-dyed indigo West African cotton, deadstock denim, hemp and recycled cotton fibers, and all pieces are compostable, biodegradable, repurposed and incorporate antiviral and antimicrobial technology.
"Our goal is to create pieces that unify. Clothing that is cozy, comfortable, functional, protective, empowering and eco friendly for men & women alike," the brand said. "The collection prioritizes the future of sustainability, function & purpose."
"America has a unique opportunity to have a diverse conversation. There is a mass uncovering that is allowing us to engage, examine and re-educate our history and the systems that have been imbalanced for centuries. The kinetic energy is ignited by the global pandemic, America's upcoming presidential election and the global call-to-action to value the lives and contributions of Black people."
Houston, Texas native Kenneth Nicholson chose a stirring short film, 'Grasp,' to exhibit his namesake label's convention-breaking menswear and further challenge the narrative of masculinity.
Directed by Nicholson and Stefan Colson, the film follows the central character, David -- played by Dorion Wordlow -- as he "interacts with and observes the world around him," the brand said, opening with David reliving a childhood memory of church in a dream.
Amidst subsequent scenes of dance, dessert, a house party and a singular scene of raw distress, actors glide across screen in Nicholson's clothing: colorful floral button-downs, polka dotted suits, a billowing sage set, a structured, dusty blue shirt with a lace bib, a tight, purple plaid pant. In the final minutes of the film, David pins a large, yellow rose to the jacket of a young Black boy before returning to the church of his dream in a thick floral mantel.
Tomorrow, the second-to-last day of the CFDA schedule will include presentations from Rebecca Minkoff, Cinq á Sept, MaxHosa Africa, Anne Klein and Kim Shui.
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