NYFW Day 1: Fashion dips its toes into socially-distanced, digital season
New York Fashion Week has opened its newly shortened four-day September 2020 schedule, showcasing a variety of designers reckoning with the past year's social and political unrest, and the impact of Covid-19, with most shows streaming online via the CFDA's Runway360 platform.
Los Angeles–based designer Jonathan Simkhai was among a handful of designers choosing to show their fall/winter 2020 collection during NYFW, opening the afternoon with a special fashion video on the latest from his eponymous women's ready-to-wear brand. Entitled 'Step By Step', the collection meditated on the present.
"We know that the change we need, as a society, as a planet, cannot be achieved alone...We're stripping back to basics and prioritizing our community, pursuing sustainable practices and striving to always be a responsible and thoughtful member of our society," described the brand.
Appropriately understated, the collection featured a number of Simkhai's classic menswear-inspired pieces, including deconstructed trenches in a range of camel tones and black; grey herringbone and houndstooth pieces; a boxy jacket with orange sherpa trim; and sleek dresses featuring flourishes of red, orange, cheetah print, paisley and vegan leather.
The collection was immediately shoppable on the brand's online store.
Adeam, the New York-based womenswear brand founded by Hanako Maeda, used its spring/summer 2021 collection to take digital audiences to Japan in the summertime.
Showcased in a fashion film shot in Meiji Kinenkan, Tokyo, the collection's clean yet relaxed pieces mimicked the serenity of the uncluttered, green garden space across which models strode.
Looks included billowing blouses and wide-legged pants in white and tan; elegant oversized knits; belted shorts; pinstriped indigo sets; and flowing shirt-dresses and tunics decorated in pale blue, creamy orange and red. The dreamy apparel was accessorized with dangling semi-circle and organically-shaped earrings, as well as low heels and loafers in orange and camel.
"I wanted to focus on the mood of summer in Japan," Maeda said. "I would like to share the beauty that lies within Japanese culture with a global audience, especially now that international travel has become difficult."
Imitation of Christ
Tara Subkoff's Imitation of Christ hosted a bi-coastal presentation of its spring/summer 2021 in Los Angeles and New York, featuring a number of upcycled pieces worn by a crew of female skateboarders. Marking the 20 year anniversary of the brand, the collection "was inspired by heroic acts of courage, standing up for civil rights and working hard to promote unity during times that are appalling such as these," the brand said.
The collection's fittingly distressed pieces included layered, patchwork smocks; sequined jackets; graphic pants; tie-dyed shirts; puffy gowns and worn-looking patterned dresses layered with sports jerseys -- with a selection of pieces having been pulled from luxury e-consigner, The RealReal. In a meeting of style and function, skaters paired their outfits with Converse, Vans and New Balance sneakers.
The skateboarding models "are brave, confident, stylish and literally can fly on their boards," IOC continued. "They are fearless and heroic, in a time that is suffocating with the fear of what is coming next. In such a male-dominated sport, these young girls' tenacity is inspiration enough that the possibilities are endless if you continue to fight for equality and justice for all."
The collection is available to shop now on The RealReal.
Outside of its video presentations, NYFW's first day also featured digital talks with industry favorites.
Early in the day, Runway360 presented a video conversation between Carolina Herrera and her eponymous brand's creative director, Wes Gordon. Filmed in Herrera's Manhattan home and broken into four chapters -- 'Fashion is Magical,' 'I love New York,' 'Life is In the Details' and 'The House of Herrera,' -- the chat was a warmhearted back-and-forth between the two, touching on their love of New York and their thoughts on "the past, present and future of fashion."
“Over the past three years, I have had the opportunity to know Carolina Herrera in many different capacities," Gordon said. "The designer. The mentor. The icon. But the one I treasure most is my friend.
“While she may not love the camera, the camera adores her. In a moment when New York City and fashion need magic more than ever, I wanted to sit down with my friend, Mrs. Herrera, and let her share her wisdom and optimism.”
Tomorrow's schedule includes presentations from Anna Sui, Badgley Mischka, Bevza and Aknvas, as well as New York Mens Day SS21.
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