Miu Miu: Tennis women seductresses
And that’s a wrap. The international runway season ended Tuesday afternoon, as a naughty tennis woman Miu Miu collection brought down the curtain on four weeks of shows.
Its star element: the belted and pleated micro mini, worn both by scores of influencers in the front row, and half the cast in this autumn winter 2022 collection staged on a chilly day in Paris. The minis made even more revealing by the seating – a series of deckchairs, forcing the mademoiselles of social media to keep their knees firmly together. Besides, their seats were cunning works of art, featuring phantasmagorical ornithological creatures by the artist duo of Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg.
For next fall, designer Miuccia Prada wants her clients to look like they might have just have exited a tennis court, their white minis topped by matching soft-collared shirts or, for evening, motorbike jackets. Though not a sneaker in sight, dozens of ballet slippers; or some fantastic new boots.
She may be 72 years old, but few designers are more resolutely trendy than Miuccia. You just know thousands of women are going to want her new mechanic’s boots, completed with a half-dozen side buckles.
Signora Prada also managed to capture many of the key themes of this season – semi-transparency; tough chic shearling bombers; and revealing style. Silk knickers peeped out over nearly every skirt; and shirts were cut short to expose acres of tummy. And one could easily spot bronze, turquoise and silver panties under her strass and beaded mesh dresses. Seductive chic at its most blatant.
Miuccia even sent out a few guys, in shorts and wee tops, the sort of lads who bring to mind the term 'transition.'
At times it was hard to believe that this was a winter show, so slight were the garments, before the appearance of some outstanding coats. Pacific-blue serge double-breasted coats cut almost to the ankle; or oversized, mannish chesterfields. And she took a leaf out of recent Prada shows, by placing the Miu Miu logo on the nape of the coat’s neckline.
All told a clever and cool collection, though ultimately a rather slight statement. But after her stellar show with Raf Simons in Milan for Prada 12 days ago, one cannot always expect the muse to sing and the style to soar at Miu Miu.
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