Missoni’s playful ladies meet the seductresses of Sportmax in Milan
Milan Fashion Week on Friday revealed the many facets of the female temperament through Fall/Winter 2022-23 collections, illustrated by the strong desire to dress for evening outings, to seduce, and to have fun again. This was the case at Missoni, which focused on a carefree young woman dressed in casual chic ensembles while at Sportmax (Max Mara group’s young line), the studio worked around the theme of seduction.
After Angela Missoni’s retirement last May, the brand redraws its image under Alberto Caliri’s vision. For his second collection, Missoni's former right-hand man of 20 years broadened his offering around a more wearable, everyday wardrobe, inspired by the golden Milanese youth of the 1980s and 90s and their carefree spirit, laying the groundwork for this new chapter in the Italian fashion house.
While the label’s signature knitwear featuring its recognizable zigzag pattern was still very much present, it was now textiles that took center stage. Strutting in their pointy boots, the Missoni girls displayed their bodies in bikinis under long herringbone bathrobes, or even under casually throwed-on rugs, balancing intimacy with a more sporty and punchy aesthetic.
A Rockstar attitude was expressed through red leather jumpsuits and biker pants and jackets, as well as in loose flared jeans and extra wide low-waisted pants worn with tank tops or knits. Knitwear made its way into cozy co-ord sets, comfy joggers, jacquard bustiers, classic sweaters, mini-dresses, and other striped coats, where zigzags expanded into zebra patterns emulating a jungle look accented by python boots.
In the evening, the looks were illuminated by mesh dresses that were both tight and flowy, knitted with glittery lurex threading, like the one worn by supermodel Eva Herzigova who closed show. The featherweight garments were shiny, opaque, metallic, luminous, or shiny. "I wanted to mix the strong female character with the iconic knitwear of the house and beautiful denim, while exploring her more delicate, almost childlike side," summarized the designer backstage.
The Sportmax show following Missoni’s provoked an element of shock, exacerbating feminine seduction to the extreme. An endless, bright pink corridor, lined with a string of doors as if suggesting a licentious meeting area, served as a catwalk. The leather-gloved femme fatales with smokey eye makeup and bright red lips crossed the stage, the length of their legs highlighted by the seam of their black stockings.
1940s femme fatales, donning ultra-chic suits paired with straight mid-length slit skirts, moved aside to make way for the powerful women of the 80s. Menswear inspired suit and ties, squared but nevertheless cinched at the waist to better emphasize it, worn with a red shirt walked by followed by the androgynous style of the 1990s. Everything intertwined and mixed to create a wardrobe of strong, erotic character.
The bra cups integrated into the garments protruded from the necklines. An array of bodysuits in the form of blouses and metallic or leather bustiers were worn with jersey or stretch wool dresses. Meanwhile, a gray bra closed a matching suit jacket cut in the same masculine fabric.
Black vinyl tied the sexy panoply together, constructing strapless dresses that draped around the body, shiny red leather on coats, and the long, one-sleeved slit dresses in jersey covered in glittering rhinestones.
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