Marques’Almeida takes Portuguese punk to Paris
For their Parisian runway debut, the young designers behind Marques'Almeida offered up a colourful show accompanied by the upbeat summer rhythms of DJ Jonjo Jury on Wednesday. Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, winners of the 2015 LVMH Prize, went back to their Portuguese roots to construct a warm-toned wardrobe with a worldly rock rebel touch, carefully balancing streetwear and femininity.
The biker chick was a recurring figure running through the show staged by the couple to showcase their collection for Spring/Summer 2019. Combining a fur-covered, feather-crested helmet and thigh-high leather boots with red overalls worn over a bare chest or a fringed maxi dress, the "M'A" woman for this season comes alive through movement and contrast.
On the catwalk, chunky sneakers and punky lace-up boots were paired with brightly coloured mini-dresses, while tracksuit jackets and baggy sweaters were worn over billowing black gypsy dresses, and a satin blouse with long fringes was coupled with jogging pants.
Having settled in London, where they studied for a masters at Central Saint Martins and where they have presented their collections since the launch of their brand in 2011, Marques and Almeida, who became parents last year, have been spending more time in Portugal. This return to their roots has had an undeniable influence on their work, coming through in their latest collection's intense colour palette – ranging from golden yellow to the cobalt blue of sea and sky –, as well as in its Portuguese shawls with long red and black fringes, which were wrapped around models' bodies to become dresses.
The collection also includes a series of more everyday, easy-to-wear pieces, some of which were put on sale shortly after the show. From this open and varied wardrobe which aims to celebrate diversity, every woman should be able to find a piece that suits her.
Indeed, the range of choices is vast, from midriff-revealing jackets with metallic buttons to summer dresses with puffed sleeves in blocks of striking colour; from frayed or fringed stonewashed denim outfits to pullovers that practically oozed down models' bodies, finely striped knitwear pieces, and little dresses, skirts and trousers in rainbow-tartan cotton.
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