×
119
Fashion Jobs
OPERA CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED
Production Manager For Garment Manufacturing Factory
Permanent · Daman
LEVI'S
Associate Sap Ptp Business Analyst
Permanent · Bengaluru
SHREE HR SERVICES
Retail Sales Executive
Permanent · Varanasi
INFINIX
National Sales Manager
Permanent · MUMBAI
RELIABLE CLOTHING PVT. LTD
Production Manager - Garment Manufacturing Export House
Permanent · Mumbai
KAZO FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED
Garment Technician
Permanent · Noida
OUTHOUSE JEWELLERY
E-Commerce Manager
Permanent · NOIDA
GOKALDAS EXPORTS
Manager - Fabric Warehouse - Garments Background - Bhopal, mp
Permanent · Bhopal
INFINIX
Field Sales Officer
Permanent · MUMBAI
RETAG RESELLING LUXURY
Sales And Consignment Manager
Permanent · DELHI
PEOPLE ALLIANCE WORKFORCE PRIVATE LIMITED
Quality Manager / Quality Head - Garments Manufacturing Company
Permanent · Navi Mumbai
GOKALDAS EXPORTS
Manager - Production - Garments Background - Krishangiri, tn
Permanent · Krishnagiri
LEVI'S
Servicenow Business Analyst
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Manager- Returns And Spf Operations
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Senior Manager- Trade Compliance
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Manager Merchandising
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Project Manager- Operations
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Manager- Logistics Operations
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Warehouse Manager-D2C
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Senior Manager Trade Compliance
Permanent · Bengaluru
PUMA
Manager – Warehouse Operations (Ecommerce)
Permanent · Gurugram
PROJOBS
Factoy Head
Permanent · Coimbatore
Published
Jan 19, 2018
Reading time
2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Maison Margiela: Galliano still searching for release

Published
Jan 19, 2018

Now that’s what we call a fully deconstructed debut. Marking John Galliano’s first full menswear collection for Maison Margiela since he arrived at the house in 2014.

Maison Margiela - Fall-Winter2018 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


After a two season hiatus from the runway, the brand returned to the Paris catwalk with what the house’s CEO Riccardo Bellini termed “the first collection created exclusively under the control of John”.  The result was a frequently brilliant display of devilish inside-out cutting, mixed media garments and ragged edged fantasy.
 
In terms of silhouette, the mix of matinee idol languidness in a dazzling elongated blue silk suit juxtaposed by a series of mega wide shouldered chalk-stripe jackets was truly impressive. Though the most beautiful moments were assemblages of courtiers’ frock coats and large hefty trenches into some swaddling fantasies.

Galliano also introduced a new Man Bag, a comforting pillow-like shape, made in padded leather; and played on the Margiela classic cloven hoof boot. Using it to anchor a natty modern Jet Setter playboy all in white – ski-pants paired with a ribbed wool jerkin.


Maison Margiela - Fall-Winter2018 - Menswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


Indeed the UK designer also riffed on signature Margiela ideas like, his Belgium’s predecessor’s fondest for painted denim jackets; and love of conceptual fashion. To wit, some remarkable sandals made of ski crampons that will surely feature in endless editorial shoots.
 
“I would call it John Galliano for Martin Margiela. Because to my eye there were so many references to Martin’s work,” opined Renzo Rosso, Diesel founder and president of Only The Brave, the holding company that controls Margiela.
 
The house’s menswear remains a robust business, retailing in some 300 doors worldwide, compared to 380 for the women’s line.
 
That said, Galliano again declined to take a bow. He has not done so after any show since his exit from Christian Dior in 2011 after a drunken video of him insulting two strangers went viral – leading to his getting the sack. So, the sense of a designer still living within an existential penumbra was apparent as one exited, despite this excellent display of fashion. Staged inside Les Invalides, a museum, - in part dedicated to fallen military heroes - and, revealingly to a brilliant soundtrack – an orchestral version of that classic pop lament, whose title spoke volumes: “Please Release Me and Set Me Free.”

 

Copyright © 2022 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.