×
179
Fashion Jobs
SH MATRIX ENTERPRISES
Sales Manager
Permanent · Gurugram
PROPERTYXPO.COM
Area Sales Manager| Real Estate Portfolio Management | Gurgaon
Permanent · Gurugram
DLIGHT ENERGY PVT. LTD.
Hiring For Area Sales Manager | Pune/ Nagpur | d.Light Energy
Permanent · Pune
NATURELAND ORGANIC FOODS PRIVATE LIMITED
Area Sales Manager (Chennai)
Permanent · Chennai
NATURELAND ORGANIC FOODS PRIVATE LIMITED
Area Sales Manager (Maharashtra)
Permanent · Mumbai
EXTRAMARKS EDUCATION
Area Sales Manager- B2B Sales
Permanent · Nashik
OLIVE GREEN CONSULTING LLP
Urgently Looking For Area Sales Manager
Permanent · National Capital Region
DEEP CHAND DIALYSIS CENTRE PVT. LTD.
Immediate Joining For Area Sales Manager @ Kolkata
Permanent · Kolkata
MEDLEY PHARMACEUTICALS LTD
Area Sales Manager/ District Manager - Bhopal
Permanent · Bhopal
DREAM HOME PLASTO WARE IND
Production Manager
Permanent · Alwar
MEDLEY PHARMACEUTICALS LTD
Area Sales Manager/ District Manager - Bhopal
Permanent · Bhopal
EXTRAMARKS EDUCATION
Area Sales Manager- B2B Sales
Permanent · Nashik
TITAN BIOTECH LIMITED
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Hyderabad
OPERA CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED
Production Manager For Garment Manufacturing Factory
Permanent · Daman
LEVI'S
Associate Sap Ptp Business Analyst
Permanent · Bengaluru
FEDBANK FINANCIAL SERVICES LTD
Area Sales Manager For Gold Loan - Chennai
Permanent · Chennai
DR MEDITECH SURGICAL AND DIAGNOSTICS INDIA PVT LTD
Production Executive / Production Manager (Biochemistry & Hematology
Permanent · National Capital Region
INFEXN LABORATORIES PRIVATE LIMITED
Medical Representative/ Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Navi Mumbai
ELLIOTT MOSS
IT Sales Manager
Permanent · Mumbai
GRAND CHEMICAL WORKS
Area Sales Manager - Jaipur gt
Permanent · Kota
IGENETIC DIAGNOSTICS /HEALTH MAP DIAGNOSTIC PVT LTD
Area Sales Manager/Territory Manager
Permanent · Pune
RANDSTAD INDIA PVT LTD
Market Development Manager - Horeca Sales
Permanent · National Capital Region
Published
Feb 18, 2022
Reading time
4 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

London Fashion Week opens with storm warnings, Edward Crutchley and Conner Ives

Published
Feb 18, 2022

Storm Eunice hit England this Friday, in a red warning opening day of London Fashion Week, where the first important show was by Edward Crutchley.


Edward Crutchley Autumn/ Winter 2022 - Photo: Courtesy of Edward Crutchley


 
A gale of gothic imagery and a downpour of dandy decadence on the runway from Crutchley, one of important voices on the London fashion scene.
 
Gender-bending throughout in a collection presented in a battered old attic in the Bargehouse on the banks of the Thames. Over the next five days, LFW will witness almost 40 live runway shows, and even more presentations spread across the UK capital, as editors and buyers finally return in large numbers to physical shows.

In a great opening salvo from Crutchley, one witnessed a blend of perforated body-con, Tudor magnificence and artful androgyny. 
 
Few designers anywhere know their fashion history better than Edward, who has an uncanny ability to mash-up disparate eras into cool and often beautiful clothes.
 
Combining a perfectly cut boyfriend’s modernist white double-breasted coat in duffle weave wool with a black Edwardian doeskin coat worn as a skirt for a wonderfully mysterious image. Or a flawless duffle weave wool  blazer worn with a velvet and viscose tube skirt – the ideal blend of edge and elegance.  Everything in interesting textiles, not so surprisingly as Crutchley’s other job is developing fabrics for Dior Men with Kim Jones.
 

Edward Crutchley Autumn/ Winter 2022 - Photo: Courtesy of Edward Crutchley



Crutchley tried a little of everything, showing off his range – from a great moth-wing broken-pattern mohair elongated cardigan to recycled polyester gigot-sleeved bodice worn with a va-va-voom warp skirt – talk about a pulse quickener – to a glamorous long-lapel menswear suit and voluminous pants in the softest lilac. The sort of look Saint Laurent might have dreamed up had he attended Central Saint Martin’s.
 
And, just when the action got a little too polite, too bourgeois, Edward sent out a bearded, dyed blonde dude with a body to rival Thor in a chopped-up knit leotard, knickers, knee socks and matching purple boots.
 
“The queerness of Gothic is such that its main function is to demonstrate the relationship between the marginal and the mainstream,” read a quote in the show’s online program Queering the Gothic, a philosophical work about reading texts through queer theories.
 
And not a bad comment on this collection, worn on coal-eyed, waxy-haired models, wearing palladium-coated triple-logo chokers, most of them accessorized with nipple clamp earrings. Over the powder-dusted wooden floor, the cast marching in distressed leather platforms finished with studs, rings and metal laces. 
 
And somehow ideal for this wild and windy Friday where Storm Eunice started ripping the roof of the shopping and entertainment O2 Center on Finchley Road.
 
 

Conner Ives: Hudson Valley Hot




Conner Ives - Autumn/ Winter 2022 - Photo: Courtesy of Conner Ives



Good to see some unabashed merchandise on a London catwalk, courtesy of Conner Ives, an American who has been a LVMH Prize semi-finalist.
 
Ives was inspired this season by the Hudson Valley School, a 19th-century art movement that glorified the lush and dramatic landscapes of upstate New York. 
 
“Having grown up in the Hudson Valley I see myself as drawing from the same source of inspiration as those artists hundreds of years before me,”  explained Ives.
 
And, even if what hit the runway often seemed far from the earthy mannerist hues and bold panoramas of the art movement, the results were often extremely good. 
 
As is his wont, Ives likes to create for archetypes – and gave every one of the 26 passages a name – from the 'Stay at Home Mum' to the 'Madam Vice President'. 
 
Or the VSCO Girl who opened the show, interpreted by the ineffable Edie Campbell, in a matching yellow and white oversized caban and flat-cap paired with patent leather boots in bright red, like one of Frederic Edwin Church’s sunset vistas.
 
“Hot, cunning and toned. Plays dumb for the boys, scored 2300 in her first attempt at the SAT,” commented the designer on his VSCO Girl.
 
Otherwise, the Diana Ross-inspired burning red forest-print sweater; or the Laurel Canyon wild gal with a barely-there scarf dress and crisscross top; and a fantastic gap-year-in-Bali beauty in a perfectly draped sleeveless golden yellow dress were, well, all very youthful glamour.
 
Ives’s Big Idea is melding elements of American graphic iconography and street style with classy draping and ladylike silhouettes. It makes for a cool distinctive style, even if it the stylistic soufflé doesn’t always work. A crass red cotton dress featuring a basketball logo reading Buckeye Champions was practically a human rights offence.
 
Still, this was a punchy and sexy statement by Ives, one designer sure to make the grade in his career. Matter of fact, he already has.
 
 

Copyright © 2022 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.