In Milan, MSGM celebrates lightness, Jil Sander opts for rigour
The most eclectic design styles came together on last weekend of the Milan Fashion Week runways. On the one hand, sensual Spring/Summer 2023 collections characterised by lightness and sheer effects, as at MSGM, and on the other, a celebration of garment construction work, as at Jil Sander.
At MSGM, the bride wore black! Inspired by François Truffaut's famous film starring Jeanne Moreau, and by Uma Thurman in Quentin Tarantino's ‘Kill Bill’, whose soundtrack wrapped up the show in an explosive crescendo, Massimo Giorgetti elaborated on the marriage theme with his trademark humour, showcasing a fun, irreverent collection, in which traditional wedding dresses were sent packing.
For a start, the colour black is a feature of the collection: it appears initially in little details, such as the knee-high socks slipped into stiletto-heeled pumps, or the bows scattered here and there, but eventually it takes over skirts and dresses in tulle and jersey. “It's all very cinematic. I started from romantic comedy and ended up, in rather dramatic fashion, with action films, reinterpreting bridal wear codes with a contemporary mood,” Giorgetti said backstage. “There's the desire to have fun, but also to broadcast a message about freedom,” he added.
A sheer tulle skirt, underwear in plain sight beneath it, is matched with a tank top, or layered over trousers worn with a crop top. MSGM’s brides sometimes opt for a jumpsuit in white lace, or are more casually dressed in cute little tops and briefs, overlaid with a white men's jacket sprinkled with wedding rings, while a fine lace lingerie set comes printed on a t-shirt. Denim crops up in bridal lingerie items, and even in total looks. Flashes of pink, green and neon yellow add bursts of energy to the collection.
Jil Sander’s minimalism
Change of scenery at Jil Sander where, from a movie point of view, the setting was more like ‘Singin' in the Rain’. The German label immersed its guests in nature, staging the show inside a cube set in a park in the middle of nowhere. At its centre, a clump of wild flowers bordered by black sand. And never mind the rain! The models are all equipped with large black umbrellas and most of them wear chunky flat boots, except for a few in sandals, who eventually get rid of their footwear.
The show starts under a grey sky, to a murmur of waves. Jil Sander, now owned by Italian group OTB, opens its show in its signature pure and minimalist style, with a series of loose suits impeccably cut from beautiful cotton fabric in neutral hues, or in colourful silk and satin. The suits are featured in a number of versions: some of the menswear-style jackets have no collar or lapels, others are sleeveless, like a gilet. Trousers are sometimes replaced by oversize shorts or wrap skirts. All outfits can be worn equally by men or women.
These monochrome total looks, whose elements, including shirts and tops, match one other tone-on-tone, exude effortless elegance. The collection is enlivened by furry mini dresses and other dresses trimmed with airy ostrich feathers, and by flowing skirts made of long, golden bead tassels.
The wardrobe is brightened by glimmers of light thanks to statement crystal accessories, from bracelets to earrings and handbag handles. Some of the clothes shimmer with silvery or iridescent scales. Gleaming maxi metallic chains are worn around the neck or arms as gaudy necklaces or bag straps, while some skirts and tops are decorated with small, cloud-shaped mirror insets.
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