×
154
Fashion Jobs
PRIME PLACEMENT AND MANPOWER SERVICES
International Sales Executive - Female - Khokhra - Ahmedabad
Permanent · Ahmedabad
CAPITAL PLACEMENT SERVICES
Cfo For International Funding For 1000 Crore Company in Gujarat
Permanent · Vadodara
NEEJ
Business Development Manager
Permanent · MUMBAI
LIFESTYLE BRANDS
Regional Sales Manager, Peter England - Bangalore
Permanent · BENGALURU
KITEX GARMENTS LIMITED
General Manager - Merchandiser
Permanent · ALUVA
ZODIAC CLOTHING CO LTD
Sourcing Officer (Fabric & Garment)
Permanent · MUMBAI
LIFESTYLE BRANDS
Head of Marketing, Louis Philippe - Bangalore
Permanent · BENGALURU
LIFESTYLE BRANDS
Group Manager - E-Commerce Product (B2B)
Permanent · BENGALURU
LIFESTYLE BRANDS
Manager - Product, Louis Philippe
Permanent · BENGALURU
PANTALOONS HO
Senior Executive - Marketing
Permanent · PUNE
LIFESTYLE BRANDS
Manager - Trade Channel, Finance
Permanent · BENGALURU
LIFESTYLE BRANDS
Executive -Key Accounts (Mis),lp
Permanent · BENGALURU
LIFESTYLE BRANDS
Senior Executive - Garment Technician (ww &Amp; Kids), Pdqa
Permanent · BENGALURU
LIFESTYLE BRANDS
Sales Executive - Kannur &Amp; Kasargod
Permanent · BENGALURU
HIGH FASHION GARMENT COMPANY
Manager Humanr Resource (Male) From Mumbai Only
Permanent · MUMBAI
RAJ KHATRI FILMS PVT LTD
Digital Marketing Executive
Permanent · MUMBAI
ANANDGUPTA COUTURE
Social Media Marketing & Fashion Design Assistant
Permanent · MUMBAI
DESIGNR
Sales Officer
Permanent · NEW DELHI
NETE.IN
CRM & Logistics Executive
Permanent · MUMBAI
FABINDIA OVERSEAS PVT. LTD.
Retail Planner
Permanent · NEW DELHI
SELECTIVE GLOBAL SEARCH PVT. LTD.
Business Development
Permanent · NEW DELHI
AJIO - RELIANCE INDUSTRIES LTD
Sales Officer
Permanent · KARIMNAGAR

In men's fashion, devil's in the detail

By
AFP
Published
today Jan 20, 2009
Reading time
access_time 4 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

PARIS, Jan 20, 2009 (AFP) - Take two of the world's top men's designers and ask what is special about their trade and the answer is "millimetres and microscopic detail".

Yet at the very high-end Paris couture houses of Hermes and Ungaro, neither Veronique Nichanian nor Franck Boclet would ever trade the nano craft of male sartorial perfection for the more flamboyant, excessive and faster-moving world of female fashion.

Hermes' Nichanian, a soft-spoken slight vivacious brunette around 50, originally trained to work in womenswear but by a fluke of destiny landed her first job three decades ago with men's supremo Nino Cerruti. She has never looked back.

"I haven't seen time go by," she said in an interview as the big men's annual fashion shows started in Milan this week, followed by Paris later in January.

"The menswear world is enthralling and is probably just very me. I'm a very rigorous, precise person, I love details and I love refinement."

At ultra luxury brand Hermes, a onetime saddle and leathermaker globally renowned for its high quality goods and just as high prices, Nichanian says her 12 years there have been perfect. "This is a house known for its exceptional fabrics and leathers where I have total freedom to work with the most beautiful and most refined of raw materials."

Boclet, who moved to Ungaro last year after training as a textile engineer then designing at Arrow, Courreges and most famously for Smalto, likewise is a fanatic for detail who can expound at length on the cut of a shoulder, the trim on a pocket or the millimetre more, or millimetre less, of this season's perfect trouser leg.

"Thinking football," said the trim impeccably turned-out short-haired designer, "we have a smaller playing field than women's designers."

"They have wider possibilities of expression, in the way clothes are cut, in the fabrics, in the excess. To me the most important thing is for clothes to sit right and be well-made. I am a maniac for how a garment hangs and for perfect tailoring."

But keeping at the cutting edge of fashion is tough business, Boclet said, with designers forced to produce a brand-new collection every six months, a deadline not imposed on other creative artists.

Womenswear wizards had it far easier with an intrinsically wider palette of colours, trimmings and volumes, plus the fact that styles can change from year to year.

Not so in the more sedate world of the male wardrobe.

-- Creating for men is more difficult --

----------------------------------------

"Creating for men is more difficult I think," said Nichanian, "because you have less room to manoeuvre and because the collections we show on the catwalks are the real thing, they are the clothes then sold in the boutiques, not one-off items for the shows and the photographers."

While scores of encyclopedic works on female fashion have tracked the hem's ups and downs, waistlines or lack thereof, or the coming of trouser-suits for women over the past half-century, the evolution of mens' fashion seems a minimal, dreary story by comparison.

Suits, ties and shirts have been around after all for as long as anyone alive today can remember.

Not quite so, said Nichanian.

"It's true that the change in styles come down to a centimetre or a millimetre," she said. "But there has been a huge change in the fabrics, which used to be extremely heavy. With the new lightweight fabrics around now, the clothes are constructed and structured differently, and that needs knowhow."

"I travel the world seeking exceptional material, technological fabrics in Japan, dyed cloths in India, linens and tweeds in Britain and Scotland."

Being technically savvy, agreed Boclet, was the key to success in designing for men. "Creation in men's fashion is all about fabrics, volumes, detail, respecting proportions," he said.

And contrary to popular belief, men's fashion had indeed evolved over the years, albeit at snail's pace, according to both designers.

Men had broken out of the strict dress codes of yesteryear, mixing casual jeans or leather with suits whatever their age and whenever, said Nichanian, known for soft cashmeres and flannels and leathers as well as taste for colour. And today's male silhouette was definitely leaner.

"But I make garments, not a fashion line," she said. "I like men of all of styles and all ages, wearing whatever suits them best."

At the house of Ungaro, Boclet fingers a strawberry-coloured taffeta jacket perfect for clubbing, astrakhan furs and boiled cashmere knits, items he will throw out at this month's Paris Autumn/Winter 2010 catwalk shows.

"I want to tell men to be like women, to be free, not to seek a style -- because your style is the way you are, the way you talk, that's what makes you, you. And each day a man should just pick out what he feels like wearing," he said.

"My idea is to create collections where men can find a style, not impose a style on them."by Claire Rosemberg

Copyright © 2019 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.