×
429
Fashion Jobs
KALPA ELECTRIKAL PVT. LTD
Hiring For Production in Charge/ Manager (8-15 Yrs Exp)
Permanent · Bengaluru
TARGET PUBLICATIONS
Regional Sales Manager
Permanent · Mumbai
THE BANYAN HR CONSULTS
Head HR For Garments Manufacturing Company at Chengalpattu, Tamil Nadu
Permanent · Chennai
IUMENTAS LIFE SCIENCE
Veterinary Sales Manager For The State of Assam
Permanent · Guwahati
HINDCO RECRUITMENT CONSULTANTS
Production Manager| Leading Plastic Manufacturing Company| Umbergaon
Permanent · Navsari
HINDCO RECRUITMENT CONSULTANTS
Production Manager| Leading Polythread Manufacturing Company| Ranchi
Permanent · Ranchi
ENGGSERVICES2INDIA
Production Quality Manager - Immediate Requirement
Permanent · Bengaluru
DIASORIN HEALTHCARE INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Hyderabad
METROPOLIS HEALTHCARE
Territory Sales Manager @ Mumbai
Permanent · Mumbai
GTROPY SYSTEMS PRIVATE LIMITED
Direct Sales Manager - Faridabad
Permanent · Faridabad
METROPOLIS HEALTHCARE
Territory Sales Manager @Amravati/Nagpur/Aurangabad
Permanent · Nagpur
AAVAS FINANCIERS LIMITED
Area Sales Manager | Home Loan | Delhi
Permanent · Pune
RAJ RAJESHWARI SPICE FOODS LTD.
Area Sales Manager/Senior Sales Officer Required
Permanent · Bareilly
PARK RETAIL MARKETING PVT LTD
Job Opening For Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Pune
ALUDECOR LAMINATION PVT LTD
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Rohtak
INFEXN LABORATORIES PRIVATE LIMITED
Area Sales Manager - Diagnostic / Healthcare
Permanent · Pune
ALUDECOR LAMINATION PVT LTD
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Vijayawada
RELIABLE CLOTHING PVT. LTD
Opening For Business Head (Garment Export)
Permanent · Mumbai
ALUDECOR LAMINATION PVT LTD
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Hyderabad
ALUDECOR LAMINATION PVT LTD
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Kochi
RISHABH IMPEX
Area Sales Manager
Permanent · Northeast India
NATURES ESSENCE PRIVATE LIMITED
Area Sales Manager- Punjab(Ludhiana)
Permanent · Ludhiana
By
AFP
Published
Jan 16, 2012
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

How long can Dior thrive without a couturier?

By
AFP
Published
Jan 16, 2012

PARIS - Ten months after John Galliano was sacked over a racist outburst, Dior has yet to name a new chief designer -- but sales are booming. Which begs the question: how long can the French fashion house thrive without a couturier at the helm?

At Paris Fashion Week in September, Christian Dior's chief executive Sidney Toledano batted away questions about Galliano's succession, saying the fashion house would take the time it needs to find the right fit.

The following month Dior -- a crown jewel of Bernard Arnault's luxury empire -- posted a turnover of 705 million euros ($890 million) for the first three quarters of 2011, up 21 percent on the period in 2010. Retail sales were up by 27 percent.

Buoyant sales suggest Dior has managed to limit fallout from the Galliano scandal, sacking him as soon a video emerged of him hurling anti-Semitic slurs at patrons in a Paris bar, and strongly condemning his outburst.

Since then, the British designer's former right-hand man Bill Gaytten has overseen its collections, sticking to house "codes" from Dior red to the classic nipped-waist bar suit.

For the historian of fashion Lydia Kamitsis, Galliano may no longer be there, but Dior can still draw on "all that he brought it in terms of product, of image or general artistic direction."

That said, experts warn the house cannot carry on forever without artistic direction, especially when it comes to haute couture.

-- 'The brand has an engine' --

Looking back a few decades, Chanel carried on selling suits at a brisk pace after Coco Chanel's death in 1971 -- but in creative terms the house was at a standstill until the arrival of Karl Lagerfeld 12 years later.

"You can manage without a designer for a season or two," argued Serge Carreira, a luxury sector expert and teacher at Sciences Po university in Paris. "But there is a limit, a brand must be regularly refreshed, renewed."

For the time being, he says Dior is reaping "the rewards of a considerable repositioning undertaken since the mid-2000s," building on the brand's identity and developing internationally, especially in China.

"A dynamic that was set in motion well before Galliano's departure," he stresses.

The success of the Lady Dior bag and the perfume J'adore -- one of the world's top-selling fragrances -- shows that "the brand has an engine".

Patricia Romatet of the French Institute of Fashion sees Dior's variety as a key strength, as exemplified by the very different actresses who embody the "face" of the brand in its ad campaigns.

Charlize Theron offers a "glamorous ultra-femininity", Natalie Portman a "more consensual feminity", Marion Cotillard brings "classy, French sophistication" and the American Mila Kunis a touch of youth.

The brand's variety -- despite the lack of a designer -- is also the sign of the "highly professional shadow workers who keep the company's business flourishing," said Romatet.

She suggests Dior could emerge stronger from its designer-free stint.

"The pause gives it some breathing space, and could enable it to take a new direction, to start afresh from a blank slate."

Belgium's avant-gardist designer Raf Simons is currently tipped by the fashion media as favourite to succeed Galliano.

The Gibraltar-born, London-bred Galliano, meanwhile, has vanished from sight, despite the best efforts of the planet's papararazzi to track him down.

Floored by what he said was a triple addiction to drink, drugs and medicines -- which he blamed for his hateful outburst -- Galliano headed into detox after he was dismissed by Dior.

Looking drawn, he made a brief appearance at his Paris trial in June, but was not there to hear the verdict in September when the court handed him a suspended fine for making anti-Semitic insults.

Court case aside, the designer has resurfaced only to attend the July wedding of his friend Kate Moss, telling Vogue magazine that making the supermodel's dress had been a form of "creative rehab".

"She dared me to be John Galliano again," he said. "I couldn't pick up a pencil."

by Gersende Rambourg

Copyright © 2021 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.