Emilio Pucci revamps its style with a reinforced team
Emilio Pucci has presented its new face. Deprived of a creative director since 2017, the Italian luxury brand had been searching for its identity for several seasons, relying on a very young in-house creative team while simultaneously exploring collaborations. In February, Pucci strengthened its studio with the arrival of a new head design with strong experience including at M Missoni, Max Mara, Chloé, and Nina Ricci, etc. and the results were swift.
During Milan Fashion Week, Pucci presented its spring/ summer 2021 collection which shows a great deal of balance and reconnects with the DNA of the brand, while playing with a subtle, modern rewrite of its design classics. Added to this was the injection of a fair dose of creativity through a capsule collection that was developed in parallel to the main collection by Japanese designer Tomotoka Koizumi, a co-winner of the LVMH prize this year.
The collection made a coherent and clear statement, something that will be much appreciated by buyers after three years of procrastination. The LVMH Group’s Florentine brand had entrusted the entirety of its collection to Christelle Kocher for winter, but it decided to revise its strategy for the coming season and change its design process. Pucci once again called on a young creative talent to reinterpret its archives, although this time just for a capsule collection which was designed to sit in harmony with the brand’s main collection for the season.
For the coming summer season, Emilio Pucci has designed its wardrobe around a 1966 print, selected from the over 4,000 prints in its brand archives. The yellow, white, pink, and tangerine hues of the archive print were reflected in both the brand’s mainline collection as well as in the 11 sculptural designs with exaggerated curves and volume created by Tomotoka Koizumi using dozens of layers of organza applied in multiple layers.
Spherical pieces including a bikini, top, shorts, mini dress, cape, and a number of accessories make up this playful and spectacular capsule collection. Alongside this, the brand’s classic collection is made up of 22 looks and mixes ready-to-wear with beachwear, offering spaghetti strap tops and bras to pair with trousers, shorts, and straight-cut skirts as well as floaty and pleated dresses, pyjama-style Palazzo sets, blouses, knitwear, and micro-cardigans.
Everything in the collection is light and airy, playing with transparency. The garments are realised in pastel tones and textiles include jersey and silk twill, soft silk georgette, crepe de chine, silk cady, and organza.
The collection alternates its prints with some solid blocks of colour and some delightful little patterns designed by Emilio Pucci in the 1950s and 1960s, inspired by the world of the sea with motifs including mermaids, beach parasols, and star fish, which are also seen in the collection’s embroidery. The brand also notably reissued its famous Capri prints, named ‘Piazzetta di Capri’, ‘La Canzone del Mare’ and ‘Conchiglie’. The prints celebrate the island, which was the most jet-set destination at the time -- and these should certainly capture the hearts of more than one client.
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