Dolce & Gabbana’s exuberant dandies show live on Farfetch
Dolce & Gabbana has broken new ground with its latest menswear show. The Milanese label had been unable to stage a catwalk show during the Milan Fashion Week in January, due to the health protection measures in place, but took the opportunity to revamp its show format, teaming up for the occasion with British luxe e-tailer Farfetch. On Monday February 1, Dolce & Gabbana live-streamed exclusively on Farfetch (and on its own website) the men's collection for the Fall/Winter 2021-22. A dandyesque, free-spirited collection with gender-fluid looks glittering with jewellery.
With this collection, designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are striving to forge a stronger connection with the younger generations. In January 2017, the Italian duo staged their first D&G 2.0 show, enlisting as models some fifty influencers and web celebrities.
This time, they drew their inspiration directly from the uber-connected new generations and the looks they love to flaunt online, creating an exuberant, scintillating men's wardrobe. As Stefano Gabbana summed up in the video: “Our work today focuses on making our DNA and our vision coexist with those of the young generations.”
Next winter’s Dolce & Gabbana men love making a statement, and have no qualms about showing their feminine side. They paint their nails and sometimes wear make-up and dye their hair, going out with handbags and woollen half-sleeve mittens. “The new generations are teaching us that there is total freedom. All the new trends cropping up on TikTok, Instagram, Twitch and the like, this is what has influenced us the most in designing our new collection,” said Gabbana.
D&G men are always on show on social media, and love to sparkle, to create Instagrammable looks. Everything glitters in their wardrobes. From suits and tuxedos encrusted with gold and silver sequins to trousers in luminous fabrics and brightly-coloured lurex, to down jackets and trousers in golden lamé, like designer space suits.
Half of a cable-knit sweater seems to have been immersed in gold, the other half in brass. Elsewhere, rhinestones and sparkling inserts add glitz to a mohair sweater and a pair of jeans, while long golden zips slash across a black jacket.
Jewellery is everywhere: earrings, rings, wrist and ankle bracelets, necklaces and more. Some models drape an array of long metallic chains and pearl necklaces across their chests, or use them like braces or belts.
Pocket-watch chains slip into gilet and trouser pockets, while miniature golden padlocks and D&G monograms crop up like occasional trinkets. White pearls adorn the end of miniature chains, or are scattered like fine drops of rain on a black overcoat, or add a touch of sparkle to a white suit. They are also used to decorate dark trousers, ties and hats.
Dolce & Gabbana's men's looks for next winter are part buccaneer, part dandy, featuring chic patchwork suits in fine tweed and wool, as well as sportier outfits and loungewear ensembles consisting of velvet tracksuit trousers, sweatshirts, t-shirts, sport jackets and knitwear. These latter looks are more graphic in their motifs, with checks, leopard-print patterns, lettering and stripes. They also feature much more vibrant colours, like the maxi-cardigans in turquoise or mauve worsted wool, and the fuchsia-coloured fur tops. Several looks have a decidedly Alpine vibe, with tech-fabric trousers, fur-lined boots, snug sweaters and down jackets.
Multiple screens act as backdrop to the catwalk show, broadcasting images of dozens of D&G fans from all over the world. “In these very special circumstances, which stopped us [from showing] in Milan, we tried to keep track of what was happening in society, especially with young people, through social media. This is why this collection is entitled ‘Together’, because we created it virtually with the help of the new generation’s many different representatives,” said Domenico Dolce.
Dolce & Gabbana is clearly targeting a younger clientèle with its new video and new collection. And by presenting the latter via an e-tailer like Farfetch, with which the label has been collaborating for some years, it is attempting to broaden its audience.
The label has given the British luxury e-tailer the exclusive opportunity (a first for Dolce & Gabbana with a multibrand retailer) of accepting pre-orders for about 20 items from the new collection. “For us, this is an important initiative. It's a novel way of communicating and innovating,” said Gabbana.
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