Dolce & Gabbana burnish Barry White Sartoria

"You’re the First, the Last, My Everything," read the small matte-black invitation to Dolce & Gabbana Sartoria on Sunday night, and the entire soundtrack was by the late great Barry White.


Dolce & Gabbana Sartoria - Milan - Spring/Summer 2020 - Milan - Photo: FashionNetwork.com/ Godfrey Deeny
 
This season, the duo moved their couture collection from the intimacy of their Corso Venezia boutique courtyard to their main show-space on Viale Piave. This collection didn’t so much shine as gleam – so crammed it was with gold, silver, zinc and metallic fabrics.
 
Tungsten-hued jacquard dinner jackets; aluminium calico smoking jackets; burnished nickel paisley suits just in the first dozen looks. A lengthy show with gilded gold topcoats; burnished metallic cheetah print redingotes or gold vestment-style crepe dusters.
 
Definitely not shy and retiring clothes. Then again, Dolce & Gabbana have never been quiet designers. If you want luxury minimalism or understated opulence then look elsewhere.
 
So much so, that the fantasy fabrics were anchored by equally attention-seeking footwear: powder blue velvet slippers with matching grosgrain ribbons; studded metallic moccasins or slippers that looked like they had been made from a pirate’s treasure chest.
 
Staged in the atrium of their headquarters, the cast marched down three flights of a jet-black stairwell before pirouetting and marching along a bright red carpet before an audience of some 300.
 
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana remain a quirky pair, who adamantly refuse to list their show on the official Milano Moda Uomo calendar. They only properly announced this show – uber discreetly – with private emails after most editors had reached Milan on Friday. Nonetheless, when it comes to haute-glam opulence and sheer unadulterated no-expense-spared indulgence in menswear, Stefano and Domenico still wear the crown.

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