Acne Studios explores transformation in Paris installation
As Covid-19 continues to cast its shadow over the fashion industry, brands are looking to adapt and find new ways to launch their collections. Acne Studios took advantage of the necessary smaller audience size and presented an experimental and fresh collection through an art installation in the French capital.
Acne’s presentation took place at Paris’ Grand Palais in the smaller Galerie Courbe rather than the main hall. A ceremonial-style tour led a small number of guests around in small groups, shepherding editors through the small, white rooms one by one. Each space had been designed uniquely for a gradual reveal of the full collection.
“I am excited by transitional moments, in-between times that are alive with possibility. This collection is about the elevation of an elemental life, about positivity, optimism and light,” said Acne Studios’ creative director, Jonny Johansson. In this way, the four presentation spaces used lighting in different ways to represent the changing times of the day.
In the first room, there hung a large, spherical lamp reminiscent of the morning sun. Models appeared dressed in neutral hues of off white, beige, lemon yellow, and grey. Notable designs included an oversized, relaxed-fit blazer and large, slouchy bag. The contrast between natural materials such as linen, cotton, and fishnet-style crochet knit and highly modern materials such as iridescent, transparent film was particularly effective.
The next room was lit as though with afternoon sunshine. Models appeared dressed in earth-toned outfits formed from multiple layers of translucent fabrics. Moving into a room lit like dusk, bolder items began to enter the mix, illuminated by pale purple neon. Again, the modern silhouette achieved by mixing natural and man-made materials was especially striking, with notable items including an organza one-shoulder tunic with a glossy finish and a dress with a texture resembling crumpled paper.
The final room was unlit and, in the inky blue darkness, an intense central spotlight rotated. White tops and trousers reflected the light brightly, bags revealing iridescent hues.
Amongst the main silhouettes, namely a relaxed, oversized fit, the standout looks were those that playfully mixed translucent layers and mesh fabric. The collection also featured a somewhat psychedelic print that was the fruit of the brand’s collaboration with Los Angeles-based artist Ben Quinn. The print was also incorporated into an embroidered sequin top and fused with metallic thread.
The collection also featured statement accessories including large bags with exaggeratedly wide strap accents, metal earrings, and transparent framed glasses. For footwear, models wore sandals.
Johansson referred to the installation as representing the liminal moment when time and light begin to change that leads to change within. In practical terms, the designer creatively showcased a fresh and youthful collection that can indeed be worn at any time throughout the day.
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