080 Barcelona Fashion: Custo Barcelona, emergent designers turn up the shine
When a collection is titled “Light Years Cruise” and is designed by Custo Barcelona, its name couldn’t be more appropriate. Inspired by radiance, the collection was impressive despite having been already shown in Madrid and at New York Fashion Week, becoming the brand’s most international line yet.
Custo said he wants to continue supporting the Barcelona fashion week and present his collection in the city, however his new line will debut in September in New York.
Amid shiny lights and music, models walked the runway in sparkly outfits made in metallic fabrics and featuring the brand’s classic prints. The dazzle of rhinestones applications, sequins and glitter was anchored by the richness of wool, velvet and satin. Asymmetrical mini dresses and fishnet tights were dressed by women, while men donned velvet suits and oversized tops.
Custo headlined the third day of 080 Barcelona Fashion, but newcomers Maria Roch and Gemma Sach emerged as the ones to watch. Roch, who has already presented at Bread& Butter, Cibeles Ego, showed a collection inspired by Kintsugi, the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery. Titled “Imperfecta”, the line had a muted colour palette and endless silks, which were flowing and shaping the models’ bodies.
On the other hand, Gemma Sach presented for Autumn Winter 2017 her new collection “Eclipse”, expressing the values of quality and comfort for a timeless and versatile woman. The collection’s highlights included long silk and velvet dresses that are perfect for day and night.
On Wednesday, fashion veteran Escorpion presented her “Wonderland” collection created by Sybille Horaist, who continues her 14-year reign over the heritage brand. Models become wood nymphs wrapped in floral prints and voluminous pieces, long dresses and dreamlike combinations of tulle, sequins and satin.
Meanwhile up-and-coming brand Brain & Beast, founded in Barcelona in 2010, gave the day a touch of irreverence and humour. Its designer Angel Vilda opened the catwalk show wearing a plaid bathrobe emulating his grandfather. Nostalgia and transgression became themes at “Labyrinth”, an extravagant collection that mixed tech-infused fabrics with cotton, stripped shirts and spider webs. The models’ faces were painted silver to complete a day marked by radiance.
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