From Marrakech to Paris, Yves Saint Laurent and his creative process by Aurélie Samuel

Yves Saint Laurent is celebrated through two new museums with a guided visit from Aurélie Samuel, the Curator and Director of collections at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent.A walk through these two places which really value the creative process of the couturier, from the designs imagined in Marrakech to the couture house in Paris and notably his own studio where all the Yves Saint Laurrent collections were born.Musée Yves Saint Laurent - 5, avenue Marceau, 75016 ParisMusée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech - Route Yves Saint Laurent, 40090 Marrakechwww.museeysl.comInterview with Aurélie Samuel:The Museum in Paris gives a real atmosphere of a couture house because we’re in the place of creation. Marrakech, it was important to create a museum in Marrakech, as that’s where he created, so the two are really complimentary of each other and I was going to say that if you wanted to follow the creative process, if you really wanted to understand the work of Saint Laurent, you’d start with Marrakech because that’s where he drew. You’d visit the museum in Marrakech which is a real evocation of the sensory and aesthetic inspirations of the couturier and then next you’d come to Paris to simply follow the creative process. Saint Laurent drew from ’66 in Morocco, he really settled himself down at his desk. Monsieur Bergé told us that he’d draw for a fortnight. Every day. He’d come back from Morocco with a hundred drawings. He’d assemble his collaborators here, in his studio, notably the heads of the atelier, the flou atelier and the tailoring atelier. And he distributed his drawings, everyone left with their drawing and the first stage consisted of transposing the drawing into 3D and then creating a cotton mock up. The mock up, so it was in white cotton, already showed a finished aspect and you could usually see the pockets, the buttons, everything that had already been drawn. The particularity of the Saint Laurent house was that Saint Laurent wanted from the off, that the mock ups be worn on live models… when he was designing, he had already drawn movement.As soon as the mock up was done, the model wore it. So the model flowed past in it, she came in through the main doorway and walked up to the mirror and Monsieur Saint Laurent, sat at his desk, approved or didn’t approve the mock up by looking at it only through the mirror, never looking at it directly, always in the mirror as the mirror created the necessary distance for appreciation of the clothes. This was very important for him, it’s why the principal element of this room is the mirror. If he approved the mock up, it left for the atelier and then the atelier sheet was started which noted down the piece, of course the original design, the number of the piece, the head of the atelier, the model and all the elements which allowed for the design of the piece. Next the material is cut into the dress and comes back worn by the model. Same process: Saint Laurent either does or doesn’t approve it through the mirror and as soon as the pieces is definitively approved, so starts the choosing of accessories and the sampling of embroidery and it begins to go into what is called the collection board which always had: the drawing, the sample, the numbers of the pieces which would make up the show. Music free from rights / Bandit & Nikit / 2017

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