Calvin Klein plays the masculine/feminine card at New York Fashion Week

Francisco Costa, the Brazilian creative director at Calvin Klein used a sun-filled Tribeca loft to showcase New York cool -- the look that defines the label and pioneers contemporary, urban fashion.

Added to the ubiquitous black were checks in white, blue and black with a smattering of dusty pink. Sharp suits were worn with low-cut V-neck slip blouses in silk and he followed a trend also seen on the catwalk at Vera Wang and Alexander Wang by using buckle and strap accessories.

There were large fur collars, another key trend of the season, and leather panels cut into skirts to create movement.

Plaids were mixed and matched -- with different check patterns used on the two sleeves of a dress, a third plaid on the front and yet another on the back. Fur coats were chunky with textured panels.

In a slight break with the usual Calvin Klein look, Costa incorporated oversized tribal-style pendant necklaces and sewed large jewels onto the front of silk dresses. The models wore sensible loafer shoes.

There was also animal print in white and yellow, a tiger effect, as well as a leopard or dalmatian print style dress paired with a coat in a larger black and white animal print.